Is that a kmx125?

Welcome, yep it is pretty quiet on here these days.

Adaley, are you in Norfolk? I'm in Norwich and have a mk3, if you need to try out another pgm.

I wonder why this forum is getting targetted by spambots all of a sudden?

That's a very good idea Mike. I believe the ends of the rod are bevelled though. Do you think that would be essential?

Can't you move the actuator arm backwards on the spline? maybe when you put the cover on it was too far forward. I would try that first, remove the clutch cover and turn the shaft back a couple of splines. Sorry, I dont quite understand what you mean. As far as I can see the actuator arm can only s...

Hi Mike. Yeah, I've got a repair cable so I'm going to try to shorten the mk3 cable to give me some adjustment. I've a feeling that the problem lies with the damaged casing as I've pretty much replaced everything else. I'm thinking that the casing has been pushed in where the lifter rod meets the ac...

That's very helpful, thanks. I'll strip it down again and see if I can manage to get the actuator to sit in a similar position.

Thanks Mike, I've tried two different actuator arms and they are both the same. I'm just wondering if I've done something completely stupid but I've had this clutch apart so many times and replaced pretty much every component apart from the lifter rod and thrust bearing assembly. I'm pretty much at ...

Right, the damaged actuator hole has been sorted and new bearings fitted. Actuator arm now seems to move smoothly but the problem is still present. I've returned it back to the original plates (which are within wear specs) along with the standard mk3 judder springs and used the old mk3 cable. Despit...

The mk3 cable has 50mm of thread, the ar has 41mm. I dremeled out the damage inside the actuator hole and also managed to remove the bottom bearing (which was knackered). I've patched up the outside of the case with some epoxy metal, hopefully it will stop any leaks. I'll order some new bearings but...

I've a feeling I might've located the issue. At sometime in the past the chain has jumped off and damaged the case in front of the sprocket. This in turn has deformed the hole the actuator sits in (I guess that why the top bearing was destroyed?) preventing it turning smoothly through its full range...

There seems to be a fair amount of slop/play in the actuator arm where cable locates, I dont have another CRM to compare to but all my other bikes have no play in the arm whatsoever. I'm wondering if the top bearing had been knackered for so long that it actually increased the wear in the arm? There...

Cheers Mike, it certainly feels that way to me too. Really strange that it's an oem cable, albeit an AR one but that shouldnt matter I guess?

I'll get one of those repair cables but I'll also stick an ad on here to see if anyone has an old cable that I can try just to satisfy my curiosity.