Mine certainly hunted quite badly at idle (though never stalled) and I had ruled out vacuum leaks and other common faults. Its all in bits now and it will be interesting to see if I can find anything wrong when I strip/rebuild carb etc. The fact its hunting suggests that the vacuum operated gubbins ...

In a fit of enthusiasm I have agreed to join a friend at the IOM Classic TT next year who will be taking a van and a caravan. We are going to use dirt bikes to get around the island (there are lots of good trails apparently) so I need to get on and get the CRM sorted in plenty of time to ensure it w...

Its not been in bits too long. However, the bike has done very few miles over the last few years - alas, not much off roading opportunities in Notts, I promised it a tart up after I let my lad rag it around a motorcross track. Fortunately, he did't crash so no extra work to do

Keith

Hi and welcome! I am also in Nottingam (NG5 4JZ) though my AR is currently in bits.

Keith

Thanks for the link! That was my first thought also but the bike was running mechanically well with lots of power albeit quite hard to start. Hence, me wondering if new rings would be enough. My piston and barrel have no markings so I assume I have a "B" piston and bore so my original piston will be...

What do you guys think? Given the difficulty with pistons, I'm very tempted just to smooth off the seize marks and put in new rings. The barrel is perfect above the exhaust port level but with some limited and very fine scratches starting below the exhaust port that don't snag a finger nail. No appa...

I took early retirement in April and have slowly been working my way through the jobs :D One of the things I was looking forward to was getting my AR looking good. The frame in particular was looking very shabby. There shouldn't be too much to do apart from cosmetics as it was running reasonably wel...

Hi Julien, I'm not familiar with that system but what I was suggesting was that you start by getting the manifold tightened up to the barrel (ie leave other bolts off or loose). Then follow the system down to see if everything else will bolt up. I remember a terrible battle many years ago with an af...

Try loosening all exhaust system bolts then tighten up just the exhaust manifold bolts. At this point you will be able to see if the lower expansion chamber mounting is misaligned. If so, pack it out appropriately then follow on to to the rear mounts. If you do it that way leaks and cracks will hope...

Welcome! MY AR is patiently waiting its turn for the same treatment My frame is certainly rustier than yours!

Keith

Ian says it doesn't do it with capacitor unplugged though which is a bit odd? Could be a failed or failing rec/reg/alternator so that there is barely any volts being fed into the system. Easy to check the capacitor if you have a multimeter as should show no conductivity through it after a few second...

Thanks! The problem is that I have quite deep corrosion damage on the outside at about fork seal level. I would have to take a reasonable amount of metal off to get to a decent finish. I have a lathe so with nothing to lose I may well give that a go when they are apart. I read through the FAQs but w...

Dear all, I'm aiming on tarting my AR up next year as a first (early) retirement project. I keep looking at the nasty corrosion on the fork uppers and wonder what to do for the best. It looks like its too deep to turn off by lathe and get re-anodised (or even powder coated). I know I can swap to CR ...

Its great that you put the effort in. My ECU is currently fine but I can sleep happier knowing it can be fixed if it does pack up!

Keith

4 amps is about 50 Watts so as much as your headlamp takes. Thats an awfully large extra load on a fairly weedy alternator and regulator.....

Keith