First ever rebuild!
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 91
- Joined: 22 Sep 2013, 22:11
First ever rebuild!
Hi guy's,
It's been a while since my last post. I think when I left you guy's I was trying to figure out what I needed to do with my bike and how to do it. Since my last post I have stripped down the motor and am now waiting for funds to buy myself a whole set of gaskets and bearings.
I have run into the problem of the crank being stuck inside one half of the cases, I have ordered a crank splitter tool for removing it. I also found it HIGHLY beneficial buying myself a rattle gun! Removing items such as the crank end nut and the balancer shaft nut became light work!
I have found some metal flakes inside the cases, I cannot figure out where they came from. Upon inspection with my untrained eyes, everything appears to be in good order, I imagine that it would be fairly obvious if there was any drastic problems?
I find myself now with a new problem, removal and refitting of old/new bearings. Even though I don't have them yet, can anyone shed any light on this?
I haven't found anything on bearing removal, but I have found videos on heating the cases, freezing the bearings and then just dropping them in? Is this a good idea?
Any advice is appreciated. I'm growing increasingly excited to get the bike back together and get back on the road! I'm annoyed that I have been missing all of this rain!
It's been a while since my last post. I think when I left you guy's I was trying to figure out what I needed to do with my bike and how to do it. Since my last post I have stripped down the motor and am now waiting for funds to buy myself a whole set of gaskets and bearings.
I have run into the problem of the crank being stuck inside one half of the cases, I have ordered a crank splitter tool for removing it. I also found it HIGHLY beneficial buying myself a rattle gun! Removing items such as the crank end nut and the balancer shaft nut became light work!
I have found some metal flakes inside the cases, I cannot figure out where they came from. Upon inspection with my untrained eyes, everything appears to be in good order, I imagine that it would be fairly obvious if there was any drastic problems?
I find myself now with a new problem, removal and refitting of old/new bearings. Even though I don't have them yet, can anyone shed any light on this?
I haven't found anything on bearing removal, but I have found videos on heating the cases, freezing the bearings and then just dropping them in? Is this a good idea?
Any advice is appreciated. I'm growing increasingly excited to get the bike back together and get back on the road! I'm annoyed that I have been missing all of this rain!
- helisupp
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 744
- Joined: 12 Apr 2012, 21:57
- Bike Owned: CRM AR (4)
- Location: Gloucester
Re: First ever rebuild!
The crank just needs to be pushed out with a crank removal tool, DO NOT be tempted to hit the end of the crank with anything.........you have been warned.
Rattle guns at £12 from machine mart have saved me on many occasions.
Rattle guns at £12 from machine mart have saved me on many occasions.
- knackeredMk1
- Super Moderator
- Reactions:
- Posts: 4185
- Joined: 03 Nov 2006, 17:41
- Bike Owned: Modified Mk1
Re: First ever rebuild!
Rattle guns are very useful.
Metal flakes in the gearbox are usual unless large. Using a magnetic drain plug will remove them from the oil and reduce the sediment in the cases when you change the oil.
Removing and inserting bearings can be a trial. Most can be done using a table vice and the correct size spacers/drivers. You may find that you have to take the bearings and cases to a friendly motor workshop that has a hydraulic press - Particularly the mains in the cases or getting the mains off if they stick to the crank.
Heating the cases and freezing the bearings can work but always put a smear of grease around the outside of the bearings when inserting them.
Metal flakes in the gearbox are usual unless large. Using a magnetic drain plug will remove them from the oil and reduce the sediment in the cases when you change the oil.
Removing and inserting bearings can be a trial. Most can be done using a table vice and the correct size spacers/drivers. You may find that you have to take the bearings and cases to a friendly motor workshop that has a hydraulic press - Particularly the mains in the cases or getting the mains off if they stick to the crank.
Heating the cases and freezing the bearings can work but always put a smear of grease around the outside of the bearings when inserting them.
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3520
- Joined: 02 Dec 2007, 16:02
- Bike Owned: MK3
- Location: Mid Surrey
Re: First ever rebuild!
Yes I have done the heating and freezing technique, HOWEVER, as warned do not be bashing the end of the crank.
You also need to source some spacers for between the crank balance weights.
Read the manual on which half to assemble in the gearbox internals into, this is critical.
I would not recommend this task unless you're reasonably competent with the spanners.
A pair of extra experienced hands are also useful to have around with holding and passing bits.
Have you priced just having the bottom end done in a workshop with all the casing internals removed?
Mike
You also need to source some spacers for between the crank balance weights.
Read the manual on which half to assemble in the gearbox internals into, this is critical.
I would not recommend this task unless you're reasonably competent with the spanners.
A pair of extra experienced hands are also useful to have around with holding and passing bits.
Have you priced just having the bottom end done in a workshop with all the casing internals removed?
Mike
VFORCE REEDS-MUGEN HEAD AND BARREL-WHITE POWER-ALL ON MY WISH LIST!!
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 91
- Joined: 22 Sep 2013, 22:11
Re: First ever rebuild!
I haven't priced that up what-so-ever. I have figured that even if I ruin this job then I will be in no worse of a situation than I was before, plus I need to learn!
I have already, as per the rebuild manual that is posted on this forum (somewhere) tried to hammer the crank out. I was very tentative with this because I was scared. I propped the casing up on two timbers, screwed the crank end nut on so far, placed wood over the end of the crank and used a rubber mallet to try and ease it out. I hope I haven't done any serious damage!
I am slowly, but surely learning to be a lot more careful and less heavy handed! Buying myself the correct tools for the job is helping a lot as well.
Could I use a ratchet socket to drive the bearings out? Metal on metal doesn't sound like the best idea in my head though. Is it possible doing this I could damage the cases?
I have already, as per the rebuild manual that is posted on this forum (somewhere) tried to hammer the crank out. I was very tentative with this because I was scared. I propped the casing up on two timbers, screwed the crank end nut on so far, placed wood over the end of the crank and used a rubber mallet to try and ease it out. I hope I haven't done any serious damage!
I am slowly, but surely learning to be a lot more careful and less heavy handed! Buying myself the correct tools for the job is helping a lot as well.
Could I use a ratchet socket to drive the bearings out? Metal on metal doesn't sound like the best idea in my head though. Is it possible doing this I could damage the cases?
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3520
- Joined: 02 Dec 2007, 16:02
- Bike Owned: MK3
- Location: Mid Surrey
Re: First ever rebuild!
You'll e be replacing the bearings anyway, so yes you can go that route, but get some heat into the ally casing first, localised heat is best with propane/butane flame.
Mike
Mike
VFORCE REEDS-MUGEN HEAD AND BARREL-WHITE POWER-ALL ON MY WISH LIST!!
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 91
- Joined: 22 Sep 2013, 22:11
Re: First ever rebuild!
Won't that cost a lot in gas canisters though if I'm heating every bearing for removal? Could I not just oven bake for 30 minutes or so?
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3520
- Joined: 02 Dec 2007, 16:02
- Bike Owned: MK3
- Location: Mid Surrey
Re: First ever rebuild!
unlikely, but it's up to you, how fast you can arrange the different sockets and push rods before the case cools off.
Mike
Mike
VFORCE REEDS-MUGEN HEAD AND BARREL-WHITE POWER-ALL ON MY WISH LIST!!
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 91
- Joined: 22 Sep 2013, 22:11
Re: First ever rebuild!
Good point. I haven't looked properly at the bearings yet but I believe that I remember seeing some that sit completely flush with the cases. As in you can't get anything behind them to drive the bearing out. Does this make sense? If so what kind of a problem does this cause?
- nicko
- Site Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 16 Apr 2005, 12:45
- Bike Owned: Mk3
- Location: north notts uk.
- Contact:
Re: First ever rebuild!
It definitely makes diy mechanicking a lot easier if you shell out for specialist tools, you can justify the cost by how much you save not paying for labour. The device for removing bearings, particularly the one that can only be accessed from one side, is a blind bearing puller. There's two here http://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk/acatalog ... rames.html
CRM Mk3, billet clutch basket
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 91
- Joined: 22 Sep 2013, 22:11
Re: First ever rebuild!
I have had a look and tool's like that, for now are well out of my price range. I can't even afford my new gaskets and bearings at the moment. I will give the heating/cooling method a go and let you all know how I get on. Wish me luck!
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 3520
- Joined: 02 Dec 2007, 16:02
- Bike Owned: MK3
- Location: Mid Surrey
Re: First ever rebuild!
I would advocate concentrating on one bearing at a time. Heat the immediate surrounding housing, then drift the old bearings out. A copper hammer is ideal, or a nylon one. Wear gloves, in case you miss the drift bar.
If you don't destroy the old bearings, keep them as a perfect sized drift for knocking the new bearings back in with.
Mike
If you don't destroy the old bearings, keep them as a perfect sized drift for knocking the new bearings back in with.
Mike
VFORCE REEDS-MUGEN HEAD AND BARREL-WHITE POWER-ALL ON MY WISH LIST!!
- knackeredMk1
- Super Moderator
- Reactions:
- Posts: 4185
- Joined: 03 Nov 2006, 17:41
- Bike Owned: Modified Mk1
Re: First ever rebuild!
Flat pieces of wood, sockets and spacers are very useful at pushing bearings out with a bench vice or a G-clamp.
You will have to use a blind bearing remover for some bearings. The ones in most need of replacing will be the clutch arm bearings as they will probably be full of grit.
You will have to use a blind bearing remover for some bearings. The ones in most need of replacing will be the clutch arm bearings as they will probably be full of grit.
-
- NWAA Supporter
- Reactions:
- Posts: 615
- Joined: 03 Jan 2014, 20:37
Re: First ever rebuild!
as an alternative to the blind bearing tool you could try a rawlbolt. I use these for brake cylinder removal.
You can even get them with a loop on the top! http://www.toolstop.co.uk/components/co ... 1f50e4.jpg
You can even get them with a loop on the top! http://www.toolstop.co.uk/components/co ... 1f50e4.jpg
- knackeredMk1
- Super Moderator
- Reactions:
- Posts: 4185
- Joined: 03 Nov 2006, 17:41
- Bike Owned: Modified Mk1
Re: First ever rebuild!
Good idea but I'm not sure they make them small enough for some of the bearings.