Well this looks like an interesting site to belong to with lots of info!

Having searched the site for info, maybe someone on here with some technical/diagnostic experience can help me with my current technical woes.

Recently took the bike for MoT. En-route I noticed that when accelerating beyond circa half throttle it bogged down just as if it had run out of fuel.
Let throttle go back and lower power band ok just not any further! Repeated this multiple times and no change.

Work undertaken to date:
1) replaced spark plug with NGK BR8ES
2) carb removed, cleaned out, pilot and main jet replaced 48 + 150. Carb now refitted.
3) Air filter cleaned.
4) power valve shaft moving freely and set correctly - electrical activation side of this not tested yet.
5) I have a suspicion about the rectifier fitted which is non genuine!
Replacement generic type on ebay or other sites list all CRMs 1989 - 1999 the same and some refer to 1995-99 including AR, using the
same part as all other CRM models 31600-KAE-741
The AR Honda P/Nr 31600-KAE-771 so there is likely some internal differences. Plug connectors are the same.
6) I won't be starting the engine until I have a replacement regulator/rectifier.

Can anyone advise on what rectifier/regulator parts / part nrs they have satisfactorily used and where you got them from please?

Is there anything else I should consider investigating?

Have you taken the cover off the powervalve and watched it turn when reving the engine?

No I haven’t.
Tested rectifier and it appears faulty.
New one ordered and arriving early January. Once replaced I’ll be checking power valve operation mechanical/electrical.
In the mean time I have replaced pilot and main jets.

New rectifier now arrived and earlier than expected.
While trying to fit a pattern part I notice the cable is a lot longer and the protection shroud around the cables is larger and therefore doesn't fit in the area alongside left hand side of air box where I think they were located!

Help please

1) do you cut the outer shroud covering both cables off?
2) can someone remind me of the correct path/or alternative that the cables take from rectifier to plug ins on top of frame please (pics if possible will be appreciated.

I haven't yet plugged in the rectifier to test it re PGM or power valve solenoid operation.

If the connector on the end is correct then why not just zip tie the regulator to the bike temporarily so you can test it? If its OK you can then cut the cables and splice on the original cable (or just shorten it). If you cannot solder then any garage should be able to do the job for you.

Sorry cannot remember where the cables route but its not critical as long as not rubbing anywhere when the bars turn. my AR is buried in the garage so not easy to take a photo atm but even then there is no guarantee it is correct as I had the whole loon off.

FYI: Honda reg/rects are notorious for failing. There is nothing clever about them so universal units can be spliced in. Some universal Chinese units are rubbish so please carefully check your max voltage. You don't want to blow the ECU.......

Keith

Thank you for your info. Much appreciated.

I guess connecting up and testing the voltage max output runs a risk of potentially damaging the unit if quality is an issue from the start.
Im not sure if the PGM/ECU is already damaged from failure of removed unit. We will see!

The cheap reg/rec unit I got for another bike was letting the volts get up to 15v at higher revs!

I fitted a cheap DC volt meter to the AR as I was concerned a failing regulator might prove expensive. Its a good way of checking that all is well. I get about 12v at tickover and about 13.5v at higher revs.

Keith

Thank you Keith. The volt meter seems a good idea

Gammakeith wrote: ↑

23 Dec 2022, 15:08

Gammakeith

Now run the engine to running temp. The engine still dies/bogs down from 1/3 to 1/2 throttle.
Manually turned the power valve and engine revs much higher.
So my thoughts are
1) test voltage to power valve motor
2) assume PGM unit faulty

Any other thoughts?
memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2066& ... b279639884
Keith
Can you advise what DC Volt meter you fitted and where on the bike please

Can anyone advise on where to find DC test procedures for power valve motor and PGM if possible?

If it is bogging in the way described then that is quite likely to be a carb problem. Take it off off clean it out. Check jets and also for any air leaks around the connectionsto the carb and inlet rubber.

I know you have dione this but do recheck. Have you got the needle and pilot jets set to the original spec? Try richening and leaning the air screw - does it make a difference?

Carb off again and cleaned including fuel tank and filter. Main jet replaced with 150 as fitted before (premix). Pilot jet std. Check for air leaks completed and all reassembled.

Did you take the power valve cover off and see if it rotates when you rev the engine as suggested by kanckeredMk1? I agree with him that it sounds more mixture related but good to rule out other causes.

Keith

Thank you for your reply. I have taken the power valve cover off along with the cover for the PV motor.
The PV motor is not responding. However if I rev the engine towards full throttle to the point it bogs down and then manually operate the PV via the motor it overcomes the bogging down and is as should be.
So I believe my next task is to check the voltage to the PV motor hence whit I asked for any wiring check info.

Ah, that's not good. If the valve itself and the cables are all free to turn then the likeliest issue is with the ECU. Alas, its a common problem for the PV driver side to fry (particularly if the valve has got sticky with carbon). There was a guy that can repair ECU's in Greece and there were Chinese copies on ebay. The Chinese copies for other bikes have worked well but I don't know if the AR ones are any good.

Good luck!

Keith

eBay item number:275346366702

That's the listing for the guy in Greece. If physical and wiring checks reveal no problems then maybe contacting him could be your next best step?

Keith