Another howzit from South Africa. Got anAR. I have been browzing your site looking for someone with a similar problem that I have but can't seem to find it. My bike starts up first kick and idles no problem. When pulling off it spits and splutters until about a third into the rev range, then all hell brakes loose and I have to hold on for life. Being inSA doesn't help as nobody seems to know the bike. It was what is named a "grey import" and not many of them around. Please help.

Hi smurf, welcome, you're bike being an AR, is akin to one of the black arts as far as trouble diagnosing is concerned.
However, I would start with an invert of the Carb, paying carefull attention to the pilot jet and circuit.
Before commencing work, have a tin of Carb spray ready to clean away the accumilated emulsion/vaneers on the carb parts.
This advice presumes that all other critical items are in good to go condition, such as,
Air filter, plug, HT lead, exhaust not clogged, powervalve working within normal parameters, PGM working.


Good luck
Mike

Howzit? Thanks for your quick reply. I have read today about another posting elsewhere on this site and it sounds like it is a jetting problem. Maybe the quality or octane of petrol in SA is not right for the bike. I'll send it to my resident enduro pal with a big workshop with said advice as I have 3 sons and can't seem to even find a pliers in my toolbox. I have contacted a guy in Greece that seems to think it's the pgm. Will try it out and let you know. Cheers.

c.smurf2 wrote:Howzit? Thanks for your quick reply. I have read today about another posting elsewhere on this site and it sounds like it is a jetting problem. Maybe the quality or octane of petrol in SA is not right for the bike. I'll send it to my resident enduro pal with a big workshop with said advice as I have 3 sons and can't seem to even find a pliers in my toolbox. I have contacted a guy in Greece that seems to think it's the pgm. Will try it out and let you know. Cheers.

The symptoms described could also point to that as a likely candidate, I was going for the low cost solution initially.
Have you're mechanic run the bike with the power valve cover removed,he should see the power valve actuating arm turn, this controls the opening of the power valve.
If the shaft is not rotating $$$$$big bucks.
Mike

Chris again. Hi all. It seems like I'm in for the expensive route and my pgm unit is not working properly. Where can I get another? I read somewhere that it is a common problem on these bikes. Thanks again for your help and hope all your holiday riding ends up muddy. My bike still rides but I daren't go offroad because there is no bottom end revs. Will riding the bike damage it further or is it ok? Have a good one! Cheers from SA.

c.smurf2 wrote:Chris again. Hi all. It seems like I'm in for the expensive route and my pgm unit is not working properly. Where can I get another? I read somewhere that it is a common problem on these bikes. Thanks again for your help and hope all your holiday riding ends up muddy. My bike still rides but I daren't go offroad because there is no bottom end revs. Will riding the bike damage it further or is it ok? Have a good one! Cheers from SA.

Some people have pegged the power valve at set opening, and carried on using their bikes until a replacement can be sourced.
Have you tried the guy in Greece? as for other sources, it's OEM$$$$$$$, or await a breaker$$$$.
Mike

Hey Chris. Marcus here, also from SA. Where you based buddy, I'm in Kempton Park - 5 mins from the airport. Let's keep in touch - like you said, finding parts for the CRM in this country is a nightmare. I'm looking at sourcing some bits from Taiwan through a buddy of mine there. What he can't find, he'll be able to get from Japan a lot cheaper than you or I would.
By the way, I had a similar problem with mine - revs seemed to pick up a stutter initially, then she breaks through it and tries to kick you off?! The wiring on mine has been so badly cocked up and sometimes I pick up a splutter while riding but strangely if I fiddle with the high / low beam switch, she seems to come right again. Anyway, I pretty much stripped everything off the bike, cleaned it all and put back together - now the revs seems a lot smoother and no stutter - she really is running awesome!
Hope you get yours sorted - keep in touch ok?

Cool. How you Marcus? I'm in the west rand. 0798798779. I haven't seemed to sort out anything man and it's so extremely frustrating. The bikeshops don't seem to know what's potting either. The bike is in such nice condition but very kak to ride because I can't seem to find a happy medium. I've now not ridden it since two weeks ago. I' waiting to bump into a specialist tuner and I'll explain the problem to him and see if I can get some joy. Give me a ring maybe we can get together over a cold one? A very happy, dirty new year to all. Ride fast safe all. Cheers.

Hey buddy. Sounds frustrating!? I know what you mean about local bike shops though - they're clueless with CRM's. Maybe it isn't so serious though - why not try the cheaper route of stripping everything and cleaning etc.? I don't know what happened with mine but cleaning seemed to sort out whatever the problem was. I'm no bike mechanic, believe me! Nice surprise when I stripped the bike was that there's a Mugen CDI under the seat? Still got the Japanese Honda Dealer's sticker on it - ha ha!
Otherwise check this out that I found on the forum under the technical section - maybe it will help??:

Hi to All,
sorry for delay, regarding PGM power valve problem - yes, it's fixed by replacing two transistors in PGM unit: 2SA1385-Z replaced with 2SA1385 (middle leg removed), 2SA1385-Z replaced with IRFR014PBF, and everything works fine. There two main problems - 1.Free sub-plate from compound inside PGM unit (just do no use sharpen tools, be careful - and everything will be fine), 2.Unsolder the sub-plate - this is the main problem - if you will overheat the main plate there will problems with outer plate contacts, if temperature will be not enough there will be problems with inner plate contacts (contacts will be removed together with sub-plate legs) but all problems can be fixed using 0.5-0.75mm copper wire.
Here is short report how to do this (sorry, in Russian, but actually pictures and components numbers is all you need) - http://student-spb.livejournal.com/1836.html
let me know if you need English version of this "How to".

P.S. By the way, RR of CRM250AR (SH572B-11) can be replaced with RR of Honda CG125 (SH572LB) - all you need to do is replace generator side connector (3 yellow wires).

Hey Chris, you get your bike sorted yet? Just thought I'd check......

Hey Marcus? Guess what? I bought another crm. This time a RR. Same problem. My bike is at a mechanic that's going to try all the various problem solving ideas. I haven't got the tools or expertize to try. Do you perhaps want to give it a go? Pleeeeeeeeeeeeez I'll buy you a beer, or a case, or a truckload. Like I said I now have 2 crm's with the same problem. If I get it sorted I'll be dirty every weekend. Cheerio all. Ride hard and safe......