Oils

Maintained by mods and admins. but contains all the answers to all those questions that get asked over and over and over . .
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knackeredMk1
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Oils

Post by knackeredMk1 » 17 Jan 2013, 08:58

Gearbox Oil

Most owners use light racing two stroke gearbox oil (Putoline GP10 racing oil or Silkolene comp gear oil etc.....)

Many mature owners use auto transmission fluid because of the cost (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260974167431? ... 1423.l2649 or http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-a ... &0&cc5_869 etc ....)

Above all make sure you change the gearbox oil regularly. I find a magnetic drain plug helps keep the oil cleaner.

2 Stroke Oil

Any quality 2 stroke oil will do as long as it is labelled as suitable for use in autolube/injector systems. There is some debate about whether to use semi or 100% synthetic oils. A lot of owners use semi-synthetic as this is believed to burn more easily and results in less need to clean power valves and exhaust systems; others use synthetic as they believe it is the best. (Semi-synthetic - Silkolene scoot 2 go, Silkolene Super 2 Injector etc... Synthetic - Morris Super Sport 2i, Putoline TT sport, Rock Oil synthesis 2 injector etc ...)

Try not to use basic mineral based oils though they are cheap, and don't use castor based oils unless using them from a complete rebuild and wash out of the system as they do not mix with other oils.

Premix

If you use premix use a good quality semi or 100% synthetic and mix it at 40-50:1 depending on the oil.

Brake Systems

Only use DOT 4 fluid.

Change the brake fluid once a year or at least once every two years or your braking will suffer.

Fork Oil

Covered in 'Suspension' posts - viewtopic.php?f=20&t=5266 .

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Changing Engine Oil

Post by knackeredMk1 » 20 Jun 2013, 17:10

Purloined (and slightly altered ;) ) from a post by FMtB -

Best to warm the engine up first.
Undo the large 17mm nut/ drain plug underneath the engine.
Measure the amount that comes out.
Take out the 10mm headed screw/nut on the R/hand crankcase, it should have a copper washer on it (oil level indicator).
Stand the bike as upright as feasible possible.
Refill with a reasonable quality oil of choice (see above post).
About 700ml should have oil just starting to flow out of the oil level check hole on the R/hand cover.
Allow the oil to flow out if you have overfilled it, too much oil is a nuisance and will get blown out the breather pipe.

You did remember to put the drain plug back in didn't you :lol:

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Re: Oils

Post by Darrylmartin » 20 Jun 2015, 09:30

Hi,

I have lots of 2 stroke castrol oil kicking about can I use it? 100% and semi-synthetic. (Castrol R 2T? Red Bottle)

Thanks Darryl

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Re: Oils

Post by knackeredMk1 » 20 Jun 2015, 11:17

Fine as long as it isn't vegetable derived.

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Re: Oils

Post by Darrylmartin » 20 Jun 2015, 14:03

How would I check that? Does not say on bottle... :-/

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Re: Oils

Post by knackeredMk1 » 20 Jun 2015, 15:25

Does it says mineral oil?

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Re: Oils

Post by fallenmikethebike » 20 Jun 2015, 17:07

Lentil lovers use it I think, :lol:
Mike
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Re: Oils

Post by Speeddevice » 21 Jun 2015, 04:29

Castor oil is vegetable based and derived from the bean of the castor oil plant.
It is an excellent oil for racing as the lubricity improves with temperature HOWEVER it may not be good to use in the oil-injection/autolube system because it does have a tendency to gum-up and oxidize when exposed to air (once the container is first open).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castor_oil

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Re: Oils

Post by Darrylmartin » 23 Jun 2015, 08:14

Just sticking with the oils you have recommended :-)


Thanks

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Re: Oils

Post by Dower » 17 Jan 2016, 08:40

Hello. The link isn't working. Would this be suitable for road use? http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/ ... &0&cc5_869 Thank you

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Re: Oils

Post by fallenmikethebike » 17 Jan 2016, 16:57

Dower wrote:Hello. The link isn't working. Would this be suitable for road use? http://www.eurocarparts.com/mobile/ecp/ ... &0&cc5_869 Thank you
I see no reason why not, change it frequently though.
Mike
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Re: Oils

Post by Dower » 17 Jan 2016, 20:26

Thanks Mike. What would you regard as frequently please? 100 miles?

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Re: Oils

Post by gregorious77 » 05 Jun 2017, 20:41

I used ATF for some time but my balancer shaft bearing went all whiney (as they do) I am putting it down to the ATF and too many miles between changes (600 in that case). I no longer use ATF as its just not worth the risk. Oil is cheap enough when you are only using 600-700ml every couple of rides.

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Re: Oils

Post by fallenmikethebike » 05 Jun 2017, 22:24

My inclination is there is an inherent weakness in the design of the bearing, it's location, and the load placed upon it. I think the bearing will suffer whatever brand, or viscosity of oil is used in the gearbox,but we'll see what service life people get who have never used ATF. My bike came to me with a noisy balance shaft bearing, the previous owner had not used ATF, I ran it for a further 5 years using ATF, in which time the noise only got slightly noisier.
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Re: Oils

Post by knackeredMk1 » 06 Jun 2017, 08:46

I'm not sure that quality of parts is always good. - Shock horror Mr Honda :shock:

When I rebuilt my Mk1 project at the start I replaced the balancer shaft and all gearbox bearings. Yet about 1500 miles later the balancer shaft was making a noise and there were the usual grooves on it where the bearing sits. I used the very best oil and regularly changed it even over the 1500 miles.


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