Clutch removal to access kickstart

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 27 Jun 2016, 19:57

Just a thought but I may have tightened the 5 bolts (17 in the pic above) too much. The picture I have and above doesn't have a torque specified. Thanks

Speeddevice · Post by **Speeddevice** » 28 Jun 2016, 08:47

That shouldn't affect the clutch operation as they bottom out on the pillars they screw into on the clutch hub, that way the springs are always assembled at the same fixed height.

Are all the plates in the right order and direction?
Maybe check that the springs are sitting down flat and not caught on anything? Do all of them up progressively so it pushes down on the plate evenly.

Did you soak the friction plates in gearbox oil? It's not important but may help.

Post by **fallenmikethebike** » 28 Jun 2016, 09:18

Is drive to the rear wheel being broken when the clutch is pulled in?
The new/reworked basket should make the operation lighter.
Mike

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 28 Jun 2016, 22:11

I've not put the clutch cover on or fluids back yet. I just pulled the clutch to see if things moved correctly. I looks like operation is good however it seemed awfully tight.if the 5 bolts are supposed to tighten down to the pillars then perhaps I've over tightened the centre but? I did use a torque wrench though.

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 28 Jun 2016, 22:47

I've just put the bike on its lift stand and spun the rear wheel. All the sprockets turn and the piston compresses. When I pull the clutch in the clutch basket mechanism works and drive to the rear is cut because the basket spins but the sprockets and piston stop compressing. If I've put the plates in the wrong way would this cause a heavy clutch? I wouldn't of thought so. Cheers.
https://youtu.be/czlrPr3Yvf4

Post by **fallenmikethebike** » 29 Jun 2016, 09:39

Dower wrote:I've just put the bike on its lift stand and spun the rear wheel. All the sprockets turn and the piston compresses. When I pull the clutch in the clutch basket mechanism works and drive to the rear is cut because the basket spins but the sprockets and piston stop compressing. If I've put the plates in the wrong way would this cause a heavy clutch? I wouldn't of thought so. Cheers.
https://youtu.be/czlrPr3Yvf4

Unlikely. What about liberally dribbling some of your brand of gearbox oil over the moving parts [ put a collection pan underneath ] and see if that eases the pull effort required.
Is there free play at the cable adjuster end on the bars?
Mike

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 29 Jun 2016, 23:13

I'll do that Mike. I've not been able to work on it tonight so I'll check the play next time. I've watched a few YouTube videos about changing clutches and they mention torquing the 5 bolts. I've tightened them as much as they'll go so I think this is the issue. Would you know what the torque settings should be? I've also ordered a new EBC clutch kit because I'm hoping I won't be taking this apart again. Probably shouldn't of said that.

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 29 Jun 2016, 23:22

Speeddevice my friction plates have been soaked because they are the old ones. New kit is on its way. Hi would I know if they are in the wrong way please? Thanks

Post by **fallenmikethebike** » 30 Jun 2016, 09:29

Either way round is fine. The five bolts don't need to be stupidly tight as the springs will stop them backing off.
Release them all gradually a bit at a time to each one, then re tighten slowly in the same manner, and check the lever action as you go.
Mike

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 03 Jul 2016, 11:53

Hi fellas. What's the best method to remove the old gasket from the casing please. I know I shouldn't be using anything metal and I've tried plastic tools but it's taking forever. Are there any sprays I can get to soften up? Thank you

Post by **fallenmikethebike** » 03 Jul 2016, 14:40

Dower wrote:Hi fellas. What's the best method to remove the old gasket from the casing please. I know I shouldn't be using anything metal and I've tried plastic tools but it's taking forever. Are there any sprays I can get to soften up? Thank you

There are propriety gasket softening sprays available on the market from most motorist shops. I have used these and they do help. I use them in conjunction with some softer sheet ally cut into 20mm wide strips, then cut them that into little squares. Grip them between the jaws of some small mole type grips, and keep changing the squares round as the edge is taken off. Remember, the ally must be softer then the casing ally or disasters lay in store.
Hope this helps, and yes a very thin film of flexible sealant will help with sealing the casing again afterwards, which I'm guessing was your next question

Mike

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 03 Jul 2016, 15:22

Thanks Mike. You're a mind reader!

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 11 Aug 2016, 23:58

Finally had some time to get this finished off. Thanks for your help.

Post by **fallenmikethebike** » 12 Aug 2016, 17:20

All working OK now?
Mike

Dower · Post by **Dower** » 12 Aug 2016, 22:05

Everything is back together. She started within a few kicks and there are no leaks...for now. I'd ordered a few other parts so I need to finish them off before I can go for a test run. I've been tinkering with the autolube tonight but that ended up with oil all over the floor. Something is missing under the petrol tank and the oil just ran out. I'll update that thread now. Cheers

Clutch removal to access kickstart

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