Clutch change

Davey Munroe · Post by **Davey Munroe** » 23 Sep 2007, 16:40

Hi Guys,

I think I need to change my clutch. Is it a fairly standard job, or is there a little suprise in there somewhere. If someones already done this job with the engine in the bike, could they give me a verbal run through? Also let me know if theres anything I should replace while i'm in there. Or is it just a gasket and the friction plates? Thanks

Post by **Jonorow** » 23 Sep 2007, 17:42

i have just done my balancer shaft so i will give you a run down.
- drain coolant and oil (no need to remove the waterpump cover)
- remove exhaust (not essential but makes it easier)
- remove kickstart lever and front coolant hose
- disconnect the oil pump cable and hoses (may be able to leave these in place, dont forget to plug the hoses)
- undo the case bolts and remove case (should come off with no problems, just push the kickstart shaft in at the same time)
- place in gear and remove the 5 clutch bolts.
- remove the clutch plates (be carfull of the last narrower plate and spring plate, these must be on the inside (MK3/AR only?))
- haynes like refit (reverse of removal) just becarefull when putting the new gasket on, mine slipped of the stud and i punched a perfect hole just above it so had to use sealant to block the hole!
Hope this has been helpfull. Jon

slider · Post by **slider** » 24 Sep 2007, 06:13

as jono says,if you do remove the oil pump hoses dont forget to bleed the pump before you start her back up dave!!

Davey Munroe · Post by **Davey Munroe** » 24 Sep 2007, 12:17

Ok, thanks guys. After reading a few posts, i'm not so sure now, but help me out if you can. Basically, last week when the bike was hot, I'd pull up in second or first with the clutch in, and if I let the bike go to idle it would stall as if the clutch was dragging. If I kept the revs up, it would be ok.

I adjusted the cable, and it helped a bit, but now there is no free play it the cable at all. So should I change the clutch? or do you think it will last for the Hafren. Or could I be farting in the face of the devil by taking a chance.

(Oh yeah, missus munroe may ride in the rally as well, so I could steal her bike if mine fails)(After a punch up)

slider · Post by **slider** » 24 Sep 2007, 13:28

mine does a similar thing now and again,put it in first at idle when the engine is warm and it'll die,ride off down the road and it operates fine.theres the required slack in my cable and the clutch operates in the first 1/3 of the lever movement,theres no 'slip' so i've never bothered changing it.could it be something like the plates sticking or signs of the cable stretching??.i've only ever replaced bike clutches due to slip so dont have a reference for this problem

Fossil · Post by **Fossil** » 24 Sep 2007, 17:06

Try changing the gearbox oil. If that gets contaminated it can cause the plates to stick.
Favourite source of this is the gearbox breather. If you have not done it already reroute it. I have extended mine up to the headstock.
If the breather comes out under the bike, immediately you enter water with a warm engine, the water cools it down rapidly creating a vaccuum in the gearbox sucking water in.

Fossil

Post by **knackeredMk1** » 24 Sep 2007, 17:31

Slider has a point about your cable stretching. Check both ends where the inner cable comes out - you might find it fraying?

Davey Munroe · Post by **Davey Munroe** » 28 Sep 2007, 16:55

Thanks guys, did the clutch, feels like magic

. Looking forward to abusing it at the hafren

Spacemonkey · Post by **Spacemonkey** » 22 Dec 2007, 19:27

slider wrote:mine does a similar thing now and again,put it in first at idle when the engine is warm and it'll die,ride off down the road and it operates fine.theres the required slack in my cable and the clutch operates in the first 1/3 of the lever movement,theres no 'slip' so i've never bothered changing it.could it be something like the plates sticking or signs of the cable stretching??.i've only ever replaced bike clutches due to slip so dont have a reference for this problem

Mine is exactly the same.. Changed oil tonight, but it didn't look too bad- I thought it had been changed just before i bought it and I think this confirms that. I think the manual specs 10/30 but all i can get is the same as the previous owner used - Silkolene 10/40 2T Light gear oil. Still seems to do it after buzzing around the yard for a few minutes. Will see how it does next outing if the ice melts..

Clutch change

Clutch change

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