throttle cables - adjusting 'em and stuff - idiot guide pls

[raveydavey]

The throttle return/close cable on my AR does not have a locknut at either end - unlike the opening cable which has a plastic locknut at the twist grip end and a steel one at the throttle pulley end. Should the return/close cable have the locknuts? I feel it should do, how else can you keep the adjuster screw from moving. If there aren't any locknuts how can you adjust the return cable?

Having now lubed the cables (without altering the adjustment too much), I find the throttle return action is still poor/slow, and the oil pump is way out of adjustment - so much so, that oil is getting pumped through the engine and I ended up with oil leaking out of the exhaust header gasket and the front/rear exhaust section joint!!!

I checked that each section of cable was well lubed and could move freely before connecting them all up again. Maybe I just need to re-lube and re-check for free play in the cables? Cheaper than a new set from LT!!

Anyhow, what's the best way to set the throttle cables from scratch?

And, why did Mr Honda think it was a good idea to have a second cable on a throttle?? So he could sell more spare parts???

Cheers

RD

[freebz1122]

hi as far as im aware the throttle on these types of bikes are a little stiff to open and close. you could check to see if the cable is catching down the side of the fuel tank. also when the bike is running do the revs change when you turn the bars. that can be a good indication that that cable is catching. it might be your grip is catching on the handlebar. it sounds odd that there isnt a locknut maybe a new throttle cable is the only way to get it how you want it.

oil pump adjustment might sort your throttle problem.

to do that remove the oil pump cover
hold the throttle fully open
check mark on pully aligns with pointer on pump.
if mark doesnt line up loosen the locknut and turn the cable ajuster until pully mark lines up with pointer.
tighten locknut and operate throttle a couple of times and re-check.

[fallenmikethebike]

R/D have you taken off the smoked plastic cover at the top of the carb [ 2 xphillips screws].
All should then be revealed , you should see the locknut's set into the casting.
The pulley wheel is also revealed then .
The throttle stop is a left hand threaded item ie in to reduce the tick over,
Tick over is also affected by the Vacuum advance system , yea like it needed to be more complicated .
Make sure the pulley wheel is clean and rotating smoothly , use a light oil such as WD40 to maintain it's smooth operation .
I am unable to help you any more than that as i am still trying to get my A/R to settle into a constant tick over I.E. not pulsing up and down .
I might have a change of jets shortly to see if that helps at all .
Regards Mike

[freebz1122]

could it be the throttle slide in the carb sticking i had this problem and i pulled the inlet manifold from the carb at the air filter slide and see if the slide is moving freely when you open the throttle.

[raveydavey]

Cheers for the replies fellas.

Freebz1122
- Neither cable appears to be catching down side of tank - splitter unit (on opening cable) sits nicely in its 2 holders.
- Throttle tube is not the smoothest action on the bar (but not to bad), previous owner appears to have lubed with a lithium grease. I suppose the drag from from that could be part (or all) of the problem. Should the throttle tube be lubed?
- Cheers for oil pump adjustment info - that's in LT workshop manual. Should the oil pump adjustment be done with engine off? Exhaust expansion chamber somewhat in way of viewing alignment of pulley marks!!!
- Hopefully it's not carb throttle slide sticking.......

FMTB
- Yep, taken off smoked (black!?!? Dirty?!?!) cover on top of throttle and all WAS revealed!! Throttle opening cable has (from top to bottom) adjuster screw on end of cable with locknut above top restraint plate, and another locknut set into the casting (as you say) below the restraint plate. The closing cable does not have the top locknut at the pulley wheel (nor at handlebar end).
- Pulley wheel is bit grubby so will give a good old clean.
- Noted about throttle stop. Tickover is nice and even - no pulsing/hunting - sorry, mate, I must be lucky!!! Let us know if re-jetting sorts it.

Hopefully, it's just a dirt issue.

Cheers

RD

[freebz1122]

hi yes you could put some lube on the throttle tube as it might be sticking to your bars. always check the easy and cheapest possibilities first before messing about with things like the carb. you could take the throttle grip off and see how the throttle moves without the grip. if i was you i would take the tube off and clean it up and clean the bar aswell see if that changes anything.

oil pump ajustment is done with the engine OFF.
the expansion chamber is in the way abit but you can just see if it lines up. just use your best judgement.
as for the throttle slide sticking this isnt as big of a deal as you might think. it might just be a case of a bit of dirt or varnish in the carb stopping the slide moving up and down as it should. usally caused by fuel been left in the carb for ages. with the engine off if you open the throttle fully and let go you should be able to hear the slide hit the bottom of the carb. (metal click sound)
if not then a closer look at the carb might help. to check the carb slide unscrew the the inlet maniflod clips. (the rubber bits either side of the carb) be very carfull with these rubbers as they arnt as cheap as you might think. then look down the side to the right of the carb and turn your throttle up and down a few times, does the slide move up and down smoothly and does it seat right at the bottom. if not you might be able to sort it out without removing the carb. tilt the carb towards you and unswrew the top were the throttle cable goes in the top. and then pull the slide assembally out. try and keep it as one unit and be carfull with the needle. then get some fresh fuel on a rag or some carb cleaner and give it a good rub inside the carb. that should do the trick for the slide sticking. if the carb is really dirty you could take the whole thing out and spray carb clearner down every whole. but take the rubber parts out first. easy to do. a workshop manual will help.

if not the only other thing thing i could suggest is a kink someware in the throttle cale or its twisted or frayed someware in the cover. you would have to take the throttle cable off and pull the inside wire out of the cover and check the wire cable.

[knackeredMk1]

All above makes good practice to which I would add:

A little light oil between the bar and the throttle barrel can work wonders if that is where the binding is.

I wouldn't be keen to lubricate throttle cables (I have done so in the past) as they tend to accumulate dust which acts as grinding paste after a time. Modern cables are stainless steel with a teflon liner so they don't need lubrication unless they are very worn or have kinks in the inner.

[raveydavey]

Once again, cheers for the replies.

I'll be having another look tonight - hopefully should get it sorted. I'm down to the last few tweaks/finishing touches ahead of MOT planned for end of Sept.

Carb slide could well be a little gummed - the petrol is 2.5 years old!!! Still runs okay though. A good dose of carb cleaner can't but help.

[freebz1122]

if the fuel is that old drain the feul tank and put fresh in.
also drain the carb small screw at the bottom.
but really if you have left fuel in for 2 and a half years your carb will most certinally have varnished up and cleaning the carb will help
best thing to do is take the tank off and rinse it out and then clean the carb.
check the inside of your tank for rust

[raveydavey]

Not enough time over weekend to do much work on CRM (due to family), but did manage to discover the following;

1. Oil pump adjuster screw is bent and won't turn - I feel a phone call to LT coming on.
2. The throttle grip was catching ever-so-slightly on the handguard hence the throttle closing action being a bit "sticky" - OOPS!!
3. A fair amount of grit had got between the throttle tube and handlebar causing "grooving" wear on the bars - New bars on xmas pressie list.