CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Post by **knackeredMk1** » 06 Dec 2009, 21:53

So it was just flooding/oiling up

CRMPete · Post by **CRMPete** » 06 Dec 2009, 23:21

It seems that way - thanks for the help mike!
Alan, I am using a cheap 2 stroke motorcycle oil from a petrol station near us. I am also adding it to the fuel so it is smoking quite a bit. Im hoping that this is doing the bike some good! Better to overlube? or is that not helping. Only had the bike a while and about to start green laning it so dont want it to pack up while im out!

AlanH · Post by **AlanH** » 07 Dec 2009, 00:35

If you are using the autolube AND pre-mix, DON'T. Adding oil to the fuel causes it to run weaker and it will be far more prone to problems rather than less. If you are over-oiling it, that's a very likely cause of your plug issues and if it's running weak, something expensive could easily melt.

Drain out the cheapo oil, put a decent semi-synthetic oil in it and give it a clean tank of fuel. Hopefully that will sort it out. Do that sooner rather than later before it does any damage.

Post by **knackeredMk1** » 07 Dec 2009, 09:38

Very much +1. You need to drain the oil and put something decent in its place. Too much oil in the way you are using it can cause all kinds of expensive problems

CRMPete · Post by **CRMPete** » 07 Dec 2009, 10:00

The oil im talking about is the 2 stroke mix oil - is that what your on about too? I have not touched the engine oil. That would be the semi synthetic oil right?
I was always told adding oil to the tank aswell would not harm the bike and is good for piece of mind to make sure the oil is going through - especially on older engines ... mind you the advice I get is not always right!!!
Waiting in anticipation with a tub to drain everything out??!

Post by **knackeredMk1** » 07 Dec 2009, 10:14

Let me get this correct - You are currently putting cheap 2 stroke oil into the 2 stroke oil tank and also adding it to the petrol

. I assume the oil level in the tank goes down - so the oil pump is working. Did the previous owner use only the autolube

If so you are skirting with big problems.

You are putting more oil in than you need to. You are also removing the cost advantage of cheap oil. When you change from autolbe to premix you need to up the jetting of the carb as you are putting in less petrol. - You are putting in the same volume of fluid but part of this is oil.

Autolube systems are very reliable but very occasionally they do go wrong. Almost everyone on this site uses autolube. Stick with this system but use a good quality semi synthetic oil and don't add any to the fuel. Get a Leisure Trail manual and check that the pointer on the oil pump is lining up as it should.

Post by **fallenmikethebike** » 07 Dec 2009, 16:59

CRMPete wrote:It seems that way - thanks for the help mike!
Alan, I am using a cheap 2 stroke motorcycle oil from a petrol station near us. I am also adding it to the fuel so it is smoking quite a bit. Im hoping that this is doing the bike some good! Better to overlube? or is that not helping. Only had the bike a while and about to start green laning it so dont want it to pack up while im out!

Oh, if i had a £ for every time i have heard that, especially, when people rebuild engines.
Autolube, semi synthetic,, and Stihl, is my particular poison, others use different, getting a definitive answer on that particular subject is nigh on impossible

Gear box, I.M.O. Automatic transmission Fluid, A.T.F., and use the old, used fluid for lubing the chain, and folding parts, pegs, levers,, pivot points ect.
Mike

CRMPete · Post by **CRMPete** » 07 Dec 2009, 21:34

Thats correct - not fussed about the money the garage near us only sells the cheap stuff. So I need to go out and get autolube 2 stroke to put in the oil tank in the frame, and not add any to the petrol - is that right?
Thanks

Post by **SkidMark** » 07 Dec 2009, 21:52

yes and get semi synthetic unless you race the bike at full throttle all day everyday...

Regards

SkidMark

reeves · Post by **reeves** » 06 Jan 2010, 20:19

try using castrol tts 2 stroke oil ive always used it !

AlanH · Post by **AlanH** » 07 Jan 2010, 17:59

I used to swear by TTS too - until I was recommended to try a semi-synthetic by a forum member who works for Castrol.

Apparently, TTS is a fully synthetic that, like other fully synthetics, contains a higher proportion of esters. This means it gives protection for race tuned motors at high temperatures, high rpms and high loads. Now, unless you are absolutely thrashing your bike to death at high rpm all the time, it won't get hot enough to burn off the esters and they will slowly gum things up. So, apparently you're better off using a semi-synthetic which will be cleaner burning at lower temperatures and won't gum up the powervalve, foul the plug etc.

I was a bit sceptical but gave it a go and surprise surprise - easier starting, smoother running and it's cheaper too. Castrol Power1 Scooter 2T oil is what's in mine at the moment. I wouldn't have believed the difference unless I'd tried it.

CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start

Re: CRM250 with clean carb but still won't start