Voltage reg seems to have died now
Voltage reg seems to have died now
Anyone got any info on this.
While I've been working on the poor running of my CRM things seem to have taken a further turn for the worse.
I'd just refitted the carb after stripping and cleaning it again still searching for a reason why my CRM isn't running well.
I know this isn't connected its just a coincidence but I think my regulator/rectifier just fried. There was no reason for this, all the bulbs are the correct wattage and there are no accessories on the bike at all.
I had the lights on and it was ticking over, all was well then I revved it a little and the lights went dim, the engine never missed a beat it sounded exactly the same but all the electrics had gone to pot. Oddly the engine still runs exactly the same, still has a flat spot if you snap the throttle open, it's even still the same when the whole bike is running on battery so that even rules electrics out as a cause for the flat spot.
lights are yellow, indicators don't flash, neutral light is dim, horn doesn't work. The lights are actually flickering and strangely go dimmer if I rev the engine a little.
Adding weight to this looming disaster the regulator is like the surface of the sun with no lights or anything turned on.
I've had the test meter on the wires that come from the reg unit and can't get a voltage reading on either DC or AC, it just flickers about. I even connected a battery in place of the DC connector and this made all the electrics work perfectly.
I've checked all the wiring from the generator up and can't see any problems, all the terminals are clean and I don't detect any broken wires.
I'm beginning to lose interest in this, if I hadn't just spent 2 months and about £600 restoring the bike I think it would be on ebay in a box by now.
Jue.
While I've been working on the poor running of my CRM things seem to have taken a further turn for the worse.
I'd just refitted the carb after stripping and cleaning it again still searching for a reason why my CRM isn't running well.
I know this isn't connected its just a coincidence but I think my regulator/rectifier just fried. There was no reason for this, all the bulbs are the correct wattage and there are no accessories on the bike at all.
I had the lights on and it was ticking over, all was well then I revved it a little and the lights went dim, the engine never missed a beat it sounded exactly the same but all the electrics had gone to pot. Oddly the engine still runs exactly the same, still has a flat spot if you snap the throttle open, it's even still the same when the whole bike is running on battery so that even rules electrics out as a cause for the flat spot.
lights are yellow, indicators don't flash, neutral light is dim, horn doesn't work. The lights are actually flickering and strangely go dimmer if I rev the engine a little.
Adding weight to this looming disaster the regulator is like the surface of the sun with no lights or anything turned on.
I've had the test meter on the wires that come from the reg unit and can't get a voltage reading on either DC or AC, it just flickers about. I even connected a battery in place of the DC connector and this made all the electrics work perfectly.
I've checked all the wiring from the generator up and can't see any problems, all the terminals are clean and I don't detect any broken wires.
I'm beginning to lose interest in this, if I hadn't just spent 2 months and about £600 restoring the bike I think it would be on ebay in a box by now.
Jue.
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CRMR
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Dont worry too much , Ive heard in the forums that other regulaters fit from different bikes ,, Search it out and youll save £££s...Nearly all regulaters do the same job , Its just a case of understanding the wiring ,, but i do remember someone useing a suzuki reg of some bike that worked just aswell??..Please investigat furthur before you commit though ,,You dont wanna fry your cdi noe do you
Yeah thats what worries me now, the bike was still running after the reg failed much as I can't understand that one little bit.
It just bugs me where the CDI was obtaining electricity from to operate, I have a reasonable grasp of electrical systems but this goes against certain principals. Unless the part of the CDI unit responsible for creating a spark runs solely off the trigger coils, that would make sense.
It worries me now to think that the bit that operates the powervalve could have been fried by what could have been quite a high AC voltage entering the system. It hasn't blown any bulbs and the first measurements seemed to suggest that the voltage had fallen rather than risen, the most scary bit was towards my testing where I couldn't get a reading at all. I suppose if I'd been using an analog meter I'd have had a better idea, I tried to get readings on both AC and DC but never got any sensible figures.
I'm not at all worried about replacing the regulator, as you said I can get one of amost any bike so long as its a 3 + 2 wire type, is about the right physical size and is about the right wattage. I seem to remember someone saying the CRM only had around 150watts available so this means a regulator off any small bike should do. All thats required is to cut the wires at the original reg and graft in a replacement obviously taking care to fully waterproof the joins to avoid corrosion.
It just bugs me where the CDI was obtaining electricity from to operate, I have a reasonable grasp of electrical systems but this goes against certain principals. Unless the part of the CDI unit responsible for creating a spark runs solely off the trigger coils, that would make sense.
It worries me now to think that the bit that operates the powervalve could have been fried by what could have been quite a high AC voltage entering the system. It hasn't blown any bulbs and the first measurements seemed to suggest that the voltage had fallen rather than risen, the most scary bit was towards my testing where I couldn't get a reading at all. I suppose if I'd been using an analog meter I'd have had a better idea, I tried to get readings on both AC and DC but never got any sensible figures.
I'm not at all worried about replacing the regulator, as you said I can get one of amost any bike so long as its a 3 + 2 wire type, is about the right physical size and is about the right wattage. I seem to remember someone saying the CRM only had around 150watts available so this means a regulator off any small bike should do. All thats required is to cut the wires at the original reg and graft in a replacement obviously taking care to fully waterproof the joins to avoid corrosion.
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CRMR
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Have you tried to remove the regulator/rectifier and just use a fully charged motorbike battery hotwired inplace..This should prove its only the rectifier/regulater thats bust if the bike works ok ,Someone has done this in the past and its helped solve some issues.Theres no charge circuit to charg the battery back up so dont go too far away.Youll be walking back else 
Yep I did that yesterday evening as part of the tests to see what had happened.
The engine runs fine and all the electrics work perfectly on a small 12v motorcycle battery plugged in under the tank in place of the wire from the reg/rect unit.
It was quite late in the evening so I didn't really want to rev the cones off it to ensure the powervalve was ok, thats the bit that worries me as some people have posted that a blown reg/rect can destroy the part of the CDI responsible for the powervalve. If it failed in such a way that AC voltage entered the 12v DC system then I expect electronic equipment could well be fried.
As for replacing the reg/rect unit I'll just go get one from a breaker, most bikes have a very similar one so I just need to get one with high enough wattage output that has the same 5wire configuration.
From early poking about a Kawasaki ZZR1100 seems almost identical
Anyone know what the wattage is of a Kawasaki unit and the wattage of the original CRM unit
The engine runs fine and all the electrics work perfectly on a small 12v motorcycle battery plugged in under the tank in place of the wire from the reg/rect unit.
It was quite late in the evening so I didn't really want to rev the cones off it to ensure the powervalve was ok, thats the bit that worries me as some people have posted that a blown reg/rect can destroy the part of the CDI responsible for the powervalve. If it failed in such a way that AC voltage entered the 12v DC system then I expect electronic equipment could well be fried.
As for replacing the reg/rect unit I'll just go get one from a breaker, most bikes have a very similar one so I just need to get one with high enough wattage output that has the same 5wire configuration.
From early poking about a Kawasaki ZZR1100 seems almost identical
Anyone know what the wattage is of a Kawasaki unit and the wattage of the original CRM unit
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CRMR
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Aslong as its 12 volt type the the wattage is the same or more, it should be ok' And if you do get one with a slightly heigher wattage then you could use the extra watts for a brighter front headlight lamp,,Wattage wise It will never draw more than it needs as long as theres ample..But not enough will blow the unit again??
I've been round the local bike shops in the Stoke on Trent area this afternoon, its been a fruitless trip. DK were the best but wanted £45 +VAT for a used reg/rect.
I can't quite belive that one guy who actually began to make out I didn't know what I was talking about did try his best to sell me a reg/rect unit off a NS125, even though this bike has a GENERATOR not an alternator. What a complete ass.
It seemed no one was interested in selling me parts. Unless I was in the market for a new bike or some gear then I was not particularly welcome.
I do at least know for certain there is power coming from all three phases of the alternator coils cuz I stuck a bulb in each one in turn and its bright as hell even on tickover. I'm almost certain its the box thats died. I actually suspect an overload could well be the case, much as I hope this isn't the case, someone tell me what wattage the stop/tail bulb should be.
When the reg failed, the bike was ticking over, in neutral, the lights were on main beam, R/H indicator was on and I touched the front brake. So it seems it was the brake light that tipped it over the edge.
I just hope my stop/tail is the correct one..... I can't mention where it was bought from.
I can't quite belive that one guy who actually began to make out I didn't know what I was talking about did try his best to sell me a reg/rect unit off a NS125, even though this bike has a GENERATOR not an alternator. What a complete ass.
It seemed no one was interested in selling me parts. Unless I was in the market for a new bike or some gear then I was not particularly welcome.
I do at least know for certain there is power coming from all three phases of the alternator coils cuz I stuck a bulb in each one in turn and its bright as hell even on tickover. I'm almost certain its the box thats died. I actually suspect an overload could well be the case, much as I hope this isn't the case, someone tell me what wattage the stop/tail bulb should be.
When the reg failed, the bike was ticking over, in neutral, the lights were on main beam, R/H indicator was on and I touched the front brake. So it seems it was the brake light that tipped it over the edge.
I just hope my stop/tail is the correct one..... I can't mention where it was bought from.
Final post on this matter - problem solved
For anyone who suffers this prob, symptom lights go dim and flicker.
It turned out to be a bad connection on the ignition capacitor, thats the round thing behind the headlight with just two wires going to it. One red and one green.
I unplugged it, cleaned the contacts up and everything is bright and happy now.
Toad
Out....
It turned out to be a bad connection on the ignition capacitor, thats the round thing behind the headlight with just two wires going to it. One red and one green.
I unplugged it, cleaned the contacts up and everything is bright and happy now.
Toad
Out....
