Clutch issues and more...

[fallenmikethebike]

Can't you move the actuator arm backwards on the spline? maybe when you put the cover on it was too far forward. I would try that first, remove the clutch cover and turn the shaft back a couple of splines.

Sorry, I dont quite understand what you mean. As far as I can see the actuator arm can only sit in one position due to it being held by its retaining spring.[/quote
Correct. A longer push rod would do the job, if you measure what's currently in there, and get a length of ally rod or ferrous rod, you can cut a section of that, starting too long [ say 5/6 mm ], then reducing the length a couple of mm at a time, tedious I know but it should give you the fix you need, I.M.H.O.
Mike

[jim157]

That's a very good idea Mike. I believe the ends of the rod are bevelled though. Do you think that would be essential?

[fallenmikethebike]

That's a very good idea Mike. I believe the ends of the rod are bevelled though. Do you think that would be essential?

Nothing 2 minutes on a grinder wouldn't resolve.
Mike

[moleboy]

Hi Jim,

Appreciate this is an old thread, but having very, very similar problems with clutch clearance issues, did you try the longer rod modification? Did it work??

Advice appreciated as I am getting to the end of my tether with this one!

Regards,

David

[knackeredMk1]

What are your problems? - exactly.

[moleboy]

Hi Knackered,

Good to hear from you. Back in the saddle again trying to finally fix my Son's CRM as it has languished as an abandoned project in the shed for some time now.

I seem to be struggling to get the clutch to clear without using all the available adjustment at both ends of the clutch cable adjusters.

LT fitted all genuine Honda replacement friction and metal plates when they just rebuilt the engine as I had fitted some pattern ones and they also replaced both the pivott arm bushes, as the arm was visibly moving in the housing, so I was hoping this would sort out the poor to no clutch clearance problems we were having.

I do have a couple of clutch cables, so can try and see if another one is reducing the free play.

The pivot arm is showing some signs of wear and early and late Mk3's appear to have different part number push rods (I have late engine that has same as AR , so I have just managed to get these from Greg(orius 77) and will swap over to see if this makes any difference also, to rule them out of the equation.

Jim appeared to be having very similar probs so was wondering if the extended rod did in fact cure his clutch problem.

All best,

David

[knackeredMk1]

Hi David.

A couple of things -

No matter what clutch setup you have in the engine you have to have a good condition cable and the correct clutch leaver. Cables become elastic over time as they wear and aftermarket clutch levers may not have the same length of pull as the originals. Do check that either of these are not effecting the clutch action.

Also (section taken from my 'Mk1 project' -

'I've always been a bit dissatisfied with my clutch especially since completing the Mk3 project. It has always been stiff despite the new parts and I was thinking about getting an hydraulic clutch. So I checked into what variance there is between different models amongst the parts I've got lying around.

Starting with the lever and perch. My perch and lever are the ones used on the Mk3/AR and they are the only parts that I can find that go under a CRM product code that were fitted to the CR range - so they must be pretty good.

I then found that the push rods for the Mk1 & 2 are the same (with different part codes ) but the Mk3 rod is ~ 0.8mm longer. This gives the actuating arm (the one where the cable attaches to) a more efficient position to pull. In addition the Mk1/2 actuation arm is longer than the Mk3 so requires less pull to move. I also noticed that the angle ground into the actuation arm where it contacts the push rod is slightly different Mk1/2 v Mk3. So I reground my Mk1 arm to approximately the Mk3 angle. Finally the Mk2 springs are thinner than the Mk1 springs and so less effort required to the pull lever.'

What I've ended up with is a Mk1 actuating arm, ground to roughly the same angle as a Mk3. With a Mk3 push rod and Mk2 springs. Boy does it make a difference .

[moleboy]

Ah Ha - This is starting to make sense, possibility I may have an early rod and/or pull arm as the bike does have other earlier MK 2 parts fitted as I think someone was drawing parts off another earlier model spare bike to keep it going as when we bought it it came with a high residual of Mk2 spares.

I will wait for Greg's bits to arrive, dig out the spare clutch cables I have and see by carefully comparing what I have fitted to the bike from your notes and play around with all the bits I have to try and get the best useable combination.

Thanks again for the info, think I might be winning (on one side of the engine at least!!)

All best

[jim157]

Hi David, yes I installed a longer rod and it seems to have sorted the clutch issue. Saying that, I haven't managed to get the bike running and it's currently sitting in shame underneath a cover in my garden while I work on my other bikes.

The clutch action has definitely improved though...

[jim157]

I meant to say I tried this with two different actuator arms and two different cables (both OEM, one old, one brand new). I also installed new actuator bearings along with a different basket, which was in better condition.

The only thing that seemed to make a difference was the longer rod.

[moleboy]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the update. Greg sent me bits, second hand arm and rod and installed and clutch has already improved (seems to have taken some slack out of operation), just going to try some different spare clutch cables I have to see if I can reduce amount of adjustment required to top and bottom threads now. Nearly there now, just that pesky waterpump shaft!!

Don't be too worried about the delay in finishing yours, my Son's bike has languished in the shed for a couple of years, while he's been enjoying his Ducati Scambler, back on the case now and would be really nice to see it finished and running properly at last.

Thanks again for reply,

David