Clutch issues and more...

[jim157]

I'm having some problems with my mk3. I've recently installed new clutch plates and filed down the grooves on the basket. I've put it all back together with a new genuine clutch cable (22870-KAE-770) but the cable appears to be far too long, even adjusted all the way out there's tons of play at the lever.

The question is, is it possible that I've assembled the clutch incorrectly or could the problem be attributed to a non standard clutch perch?

I did compare the new plates with the old and they were the same, albeit with more meat on them. Unfortunately I discarded the old cable, so I cant try that for comparison.



To add insult to injury I installed an aftermarket sump plug, and as I was rushing I forgot to compare the new bolt's thread pitch with the old one. Typical to form, it was the wrong size and I stripped the threads on my sump.

I was going to fit a helicoil to the damaged threads but on closer inspection I noticed the slots in the sides of the sump hole (I assume to allow oil to drain out?). Would there be an issue using a helicoil and blocking these slots, or should I just risk tapping out the hole to a larger size and using a bigger sump bolt?


Thanks in advance.

[fallenmikethebike]

I'm having some problems with my mk3. I've recently installed new clutch plates and filed down the grooves on the basket. I've put it all back together with a new genuine clutch cable (22870-KAE-770) but the cable appears to be far too long, even adjusted all the way out there's tons of play at the lever.

The question is, is it possible that I've assembled the clutch incorrectly or could the problem be attributed to a non standard clutch perch?

I did compare the new plates with the old and they were the same, albeit with more meat on them. Unfortunately I discarded the old cable, so I cant try that for comparison.



To add insult to injury I installed an aftermarket sump plug, and as I was rushing I forgot to compare the new bolt's thread pitch with the old one. Typical to form, it was the wrong size and I stripped the threads on my sump.

I was going to fit a helicoil to the damaged threads but on closer inspection I noticed the slots in the sides of the sump hole (I assume to allow oil to drain out?). Would there be an issue using a helicoil and blocking these slots, or should I just risk tapping out the hole to a larger size and using a bigger sump bolt?


Thanks in advance.

The ball bearing that sits against the end of the push rod hasn't gone AWOL has it?
Re-tapping the thread for oil drain down would be better if it was done to accept a helicoil of the correct drain plug size.
You might be able to do this without separating the cases. Get the bike high enough so as you can get underneath it, and thus the swarf will fall downwards, wearing goggles ould be a smart idea. Lock thread the helicoil in with some quality thread lock liquid. If possible measure the case thickness at that point, you don't want the helicoil sticking up inside the engine case.
MIKE

[jim157]

Hi Mike, thanks for your reply.

Do you mean the No.24 bearing in this pic?


I'm pretty sure it is but I'll strip it down again and check.


Can I just check that the standard sump bolt is a M12 1.25?

Cheers.

[fallenmikethebike]

Hhmmee, 24 is more like a flat thrust type of bearing. It doesn't show a ball bearing in that exploded view, so perhaps I'm wrong, but I seem to remember an in line ball bearing between the push rod [ NB 16 and NB 13 ].
For clarity at what angle to the casing is the actuator arm sitting, it should , roughly be pointing at the back edge of the reed moulding.
The bolt size I'm uncertain of , without a drain down.
Mike

[jim157]

I was fairly careful when I dismantled the assembly and dont recall seeing a ball bearing there. Having just measured my old plates and springs and found them to be within spec, I'm wondering if the bearing was missed out by a previous owner?

The clutch was dodgy when I got the bike, hence this rebuild. The horrors I've found so far wouldn't surprise me if something is missing.

Here's a pic of the actuator arm:-

[knackeredMk1]

No ball bearing as I remember in the main clutch. The two ball bearings that the actuating arm mounts in are very necessary for smooth clutch action and are the most exposed to dirt and water. I would recommend that you at least check them and replace if necessary.

[fallenmikethebike]

Seeing the photo of the actuating arm my suspicion would fall on the cable as having the wrong amount of free inner cable, but that's an O.E.part.
Mike

[jim157]

Yep, I'm kicking myself for not keeping the old cable now. I'll check the bearings in the actuator too.

I'll have another look at it tomorrow and report back.

[fallenmikethebike]

Steve, do you think the actuating lever is a little to far forward for having had a new set of plates fitted?
I would have preferred to have seen the bite point a bit further back, hence taking up the slack.
How much is the adjusting bolt on the bottom wound out?
Mike

[jim157]

Right, I've checked the actuator bearings, the top one feels a bit rough and the bottom one has started to fall to pieces!
Will I need a blind bearing puller to get them out?

I've decided that I'm going to try to win the clutch assembly which is up on ebay at the moment, get an oem clutch perch and replace the actuator bearings. Hopefully this will sort things out, or at least help me rule out that the main parts of the clutch assembly are at fault.

[fallenmikethebike]

Right, I've checked the actuator bearings, the top one feels a bit rough and the bottom one has started to fall to pieces!
Will I need a blind bearing puller to get them out?

I've decided that I'm going to try to win the clutch assembly which is up on ebay at the moment, get an oem clutch perch and replace the actuator bearings. Hopefully this will sort things out, or at least help me rule out that the main parts of the clutch assembly are at fault.

Yes, and a dose of luck . The top one I have replaced using a diamond blade in a jigsaw, [ plonker of a job though].
I can't remember for certain, but the stem of the actuator arm might have a slight bezel that keeps it contained, thus requiring the push rod to be removed to allow it to pop upwards, I think.
Mike

[jim157]

Right, new clutch basket and perch fitted and a new top bearing in the lifter rod aperture (the bottom one seemed ok, plus I couldn't get it out!) as the rollers had fallen out of it. Unfortunately the clutch is still the same, I can only get it to work if I pull the cable right to the end of its adjustment at the engine end and use all the adjustment at the lever.

I'm therefore guessing that the actuator arm is completely shagged (there does seem to be a lot of play where the cable hooks in) or the clutch cable is too long.

What is everyone's thoughts?

[fallenmikethebike]

My thoughts are the cable, [ though the right one] has to much free play.
If you look on line you can find a universal spare breakdown clutch cable. It's probably worth buying one of those, and setting that up to work on the bike, if it will, which it should do.
There are handy bit of kit to have in the spares wallet in any case.
Mike

[jim157]

Cheers Mike, it certainly feels that way to me too. Really strange that it's an oem cable, albeit an AR one but that shouldnt matter I guess?

I'll get one of those repair cables but I'll also stick an ad on here to see if anyone has an old cable that I can try just to satisfy my curiosity.

[fallenmikethebike]

How much float on the actuator arm is there where the clutch cable clips into the actuator arm ?
Just a guess because I haven't looked at one in years, but is not possible to drop another bearing/bush in the push rod holder casing, this will sit on top of what's left of the old bearing and might take some of the side to side float out?
I had a look round the garage, but only found an old casing for an AR clutch cable.
KNMK1 might know more.
Mike