changing tyres

edarter · Post by **edarter** » 01 Nov 2004, 13:18

ok - after a couple of hours early yesterday morning trying to get the VERY worn out MX tyre off my bike to be replaced by a shiny new ED660 I gave up - couldn't get the b*****d tyre off the rim ! what are the tricks to doing it, need to have the new tyres on for next weekend as I'm not legal for the Haffren otherwise.

Cheers

Ed

Beanie · Post by **Beanie** » 01 Nov 2004, 17:26

If you're struggling to break the bead, try putting it in a vice and squeezing the tyre walls together to break the bead from the rim?

Beanie

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 01 Nov 2004, 17:52

then can be a right bastid, i usually stand on the tyre to peel the bead back then put a tyre lever down the edge and hit it with a hammer.

make sure it's disk side up if your standing on them, proper tyre past can help.

i've got mine to do soon, nobblies on slimey roads don't work...

unicorny · Post by **unicorny** » 02 Nov 2004, 12:02

For ones that are proper stuck, I use a narrow (are they called border?) garden spade. Lay the wheel down with disc upwards & pushed into the garage corner, work the spade between the rim and the tyre and then lever up whilst a mate stands on the wheel/tyre. Works everytime for me.

Before I found this way, I used to take it to any tyre place (car or bike) usually they would break the bead for nowt or maybe a couple of quid.

For general tips on changing tyres you could have a look at

http://www.klxzone.co.uk/maintips.html

about half way down the page there is a tyre changing guide. Good tyre levers, tyre wax and a bead buddy make all the difference.

edarter · Post by **edarter** » 02 Nov 2004, 13:23

so I need to get the beads in the part of the rim where the spokes attach by the sound of it (rather than at the edge), to allow enough play to get the other side over the rim ???

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 02 Nov 2004, 21:27

dirt bike store have a how to guide.

my back tyre was just a bugger, but if you stand on the rim, put tyre paste in the gaps and work it in (walk round the rim) it helped, a previously glued on tyre came of in 5 mins after the paste. washing up liquid does the job too.

the longer the levers the easier the job mine are only 9\" ones wished I had 14's would have saved a few bruised knuckles tonight.

45grum · Post by **45grum** » 03 Nov 2004, 10:22

Hi all

To start with try and get a car spare wheel ( small ones are best, 13\") to rest the wheel on ideally your rim should just fit over the outside of the car tyre this will keep your disc/sprockets from getting damaged on the floor, Let the air out and remove valve and nut, break the beads of the tyre I use a vice but there are many ways of doing this ( spade and lever works well ) lay wheel on spare with sprocket up as you are less likely to damage this start by squeezing the tyre beads into the well of the wheel opposite the valve but away from any rim locks then with a smear of lube ( washing up liquid mixed with water ) carefully start levering out the bead at the point opposite were you have squeezed the beads into the well I like to use a long lever to start with make sure there are no sharp edges on the lever and only put it in enough to catch the bead a bit of lube on the lever stops it pinching the tube. When you have the first bit of bead overslide a smaller lever in and catch it under the sprocket now work your way round both ways from the start point 3 or 4 inches at a time until you get to about half way when the whole bead should pop off.
Now remove any rim locks and pull the tube out, stand the wheel up and with the big lever and the remaining bead sat in the well push tyre over to expose the well and slide the lever under the tyre and over the rim that is in the tyre now pull the lever right over apush down on the tyre till it pops off the rim.
Now is a good time to check your rim for damage and corrosion. I dont use rim tapes on bikes with rim locks as they are a pain in the arse instead I tear a strip of gaffer tape the width of the rim tape and stick it over the well to cover the spoke ends then cut holes were the valve and rim locks go.
To fit tyre, lube up the beads and fit the sprocket side of rim into tyre you may need to lever the last bit on. refit any rim locks but only just fit the nuts on the ends. poke valve through hole ( easier than it sounds ) and fit nut on end to stop valve disappearing back into tyre and put tube inside tyre, at this point i like to blow up tube with no valve in so it remove any folds or creases dont put too much air in as thi could blow the tubu out and cause damage. Let the air out and lay the tyre back on spare wheel, now tuck the bead opposite the valve into the well and hold it there with your knee or foot and start working as much bead in to the rim by hand try and keep it in the well and dont forget to push rim locks in and get the tyre under them. When you cant get any more bead on by hand start using the levers again a bit of lube helps and only use the very tip of the lever and be extra careful that you dont pinch the tube. try and work equally from both sides towards the valve, when you get to the valve push it back so you dont get the tube trapped as the last bit of tyre is levered over, now tighten valvenut by hand and inflate until both beads seat properly, set tyre pressure and tighten rim locks. some people dont tighten the valve nut fully so you can see if there has been any tyre creep if the valve nut is tight you wont know until the valve is ripped out of the tube, leave the nut a couple of turns loose and you can see if the tube is creeping by the angle of the valve.
This is my way other people do it there way good luck.
( you could always go to a tyre fitter )

Cheers Graham....

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 03 Nov 2004, 16:13

last night I left the tube valve in the wheel, I was very carefull and managed to get tyres off/on without pinching it. saved my 20 mins and more bruised knuckles.

SteveOldGit · Post by **SteveOldGit** » 04 Nov 2004, 20:39

Guy’s……
Save yourselves loads of hassle, bruised knuckles, swearing, kicking the dog etc…..

Just remove the wheels, pop em down to your local tyre dealer and for ten/twelve quid and 20 mins their sorted…… freeing you up to ride your crm

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 04 Nov 2004, 21:04

Steveoldgit wrote:Guy’s……
Save yourselves loads of hassle, bruised knuckles, swearing, kicking the dog etc…..
Just remove the wheels, pop em down to your local tyre dealer and for ten/twelve quid and 20 mins their sorted…… freeing you up to ride your crm

Where is the fun in that?

I Swapped my front tyre in 15 mins this afternoon.....only a bit of skin missing... and the sense of satisfaction is worth it... my blood pressure dropped considerably....

Bargos · Post by **Bargos** » 11 Nov 2004, 19:34

Hi,

Well its a tough job but someone has to do it!!! Seriously, i dont know about anyone else, maybe its my crap riding style but i keep getting punctures in the front tyre and im glad that I am able to change them out on the trail. I can do the front in about 20 minutes now, back takes a little longer...once you have the knack its no problem - saves you a few quid as well

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 11 Nov 2004, 19:36

have you got a really heavy duty tube?

Bargos · Post by **Bargos** » 12 Nov 2004, 19:28

Hello mate,

Yes i usually spend a bit more on the thicker tube, makes all the difference.

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 12 Nov 2004, 19:50

just checking! 8)

Bargos · Post by **Bargos** » 13 Nov 2004, 20:52

Anymore questions about the thickness of my tube?

changing tyres

changing tyres

bead breaking