Always a bit of a subject here, on CRM250. I have devised a simple test set-up for the electrical system....on my MK3.

AC generator test: Disconnect the two pin connector under the seat. Make up a new 'female' connector that clips into the wiring loom and connect to a spare 12v bike battery (borrowed from my Ducati). The bike will now start under the seperate 12v system. Dusconnect the three pin connector, clipped to the right side of the frame, just under the rear of the tank...3 x yellow wires. Use a multi meter to test the AC current coming out of the generator (the generator is a 3 phase 18 winding unit, so that any two phases will produce a minimium of 12v) on any two of the three pins, my system is producing 28/29v AC at tick over and 90+v AC at full on. Confirmed with Plymouth Windings, this is expected for a battery-less set up.
Rectifier test: Make a dummy connection between the two pin connector, as above and test the DC current passing from the Rectifier/Regulator unit, into the wiring loom. Mine is producing a steady 12.5v DC into the wiring loom .....and the same at the front headlight connectors.
PV Unit test: still working on this one.....but it can be done.

How can we test the PGM unit...any ideas ?.

Any one willing to test my PGM unit on there MK 3 ?.

Ta

Chris

hi chris,
reading back through the post i take it you still have aloss of power
i had the same problem as you, my problem like pearce was down to the carb, i had a good look in to the pgm unit but after chating to LT realised i was looking to deep , the carb can be a bit of a problem on a crm and needs to be kept clean i had a filter on mine but still got dirt in the carb. \"cheep filter\"
LT told me the only problem you get with the pgm unit is related to the power valve,apart from that you have to consider the fact of piston rings . this will give you a lack of power.
not hard to test if you have the right stuff. you can get a compression tester from screwfix for £16.
but back to the pgm if your power valve is moving, it should be ok
if you really wanna check the timing side of it get a strobe light at 1200 rpm \"tick over\" you should see the F mark, if you give the bike some hard revs the timing should advance \"move forward\" no more than the TDC . mark im pritty sure im not talking crap.please corect me if wronge.
but i did this with my bike and all was well,
good luck fella timo

Thanks Timo,

Have had the carb 'serviced' at LT....new jets/cleaned the E tube/float height/seal kit/air line blow through.
The PV is working OK....i've also disconnected the PV cables and wedged the PV fully open with a small stick (counter clockwise) and the problem is still there.
I have cleaned all the earthing points with a abrasive drill bit.
Have had the barrel off and checked by a local engineering shop...the bore wear was 66.03mm at max, the piston was hardly worn and i put new rings in as matter of course.

Its a weird one....the bike runs great in the garage...its only when you load the motor, open the throttle past a 1/4......it feels like the choke is on,

I'll check the woodruf key & timing etc.

If its not that....it'll be a motor strip and check out the CC seals

;-(

Chris