Can anybody help? I bought a CRM off a mate after nagging him for Weeks to part with his bike. It is a non-runner. The problem is that it starts for about 5 secs and then stops as if you have hit the stop switch. I have had the CDI checked and it has been proved OK. I have looked at the wiring diagram and the only other electrical thing I can see is the condenser. What does this do for a living. Can somebody suggest something please. I wait your Knowledge

have you checked the fuel side?

good call phil1 ,, It does sound like its using a float bowl full of juce and the cutting out ,,,i could well be the float seat and needle,or even float height?.If it is carb problems then a cood clean and blowout will do the trick ,,and also check the fuel filter on the tap and clean inside the tank..you could end up fixing the problem and and causing the same problem before you even start it up it you dont cover all fuel line from tank to carb

also

it could by your spark plug or cap breaking down when hot ,?

the carbs always worth alook,give it a good clean, prone to collecting dirt,also have you changed the plug, and check the stop switch as they are known to fail. also a compression test would be an idear.
a condenser absorbes charge in between sparks to prevent arking well it did in the days of points , so i would think its the same with the crms ingition system, so i would expect if this was faulty the bike would run really eratically miss fire ect .
apart from that look back on this site as you will find loads of stuff to help you ,
good luck timo

sorry fellas didnt see your replys ,

slight correction to the condencer mate it absorbed charge in between the points to stop arking ,as the coil works a bit like when you start a floresent light ,it releases a high voltage when the power is cut, ie when the points open,
although we no longer have points, the theory is the same ,
pritty sure please correct if wronge,, timo

Thanks all I will check these bits this weekend and see what happens. I'll get back to you guys.

also if the bike has been standing for a while with unleaded the petrol, this forms a varish on needles etc, so might start then conk out, had this with old DR400s, would never have found it if someone hadn`t suggested this.
remeady was to soak carb in something, i think it was white spirt but could have been meths or something else from drinks cabinet! but it worked.

Thanks for the information all. I have tried all these things, but to no avail, It leads me to believe that it couls be electrical. I will keep updating this site

Thanks

check your not using a resistor cap AND a resister(r rated) spark plug..Two lots of resistance is not good and will kill your spark ,,

good point I will look at them both and get back to you. How do I check the charging system ?

no battry , hence , there is no charging system..however , youll need to see 14 volts dc from the reg......ok

Yeah thats what I meant, how do you check the stator is producing the required voltage and what is that AC voltage before the voltage rectifier ?

Sounds more like fuel supply to me.

Clean out the carb. thoroughly, blow through all the jets and airways with a high pressure airline, clean out the tank, dismantle and clean the fuel tap and filter assembly, lastly, fit one of those small in-line filters to the fuel pipe between the tank and carb., tiny particles of rust may get through the tank filter and block one or more jets, but the in-line filter should catch any that get through.

Roger.

Right then, I think I have the cause of the problem, it could be the voltage rectifier/regulator. The alternator is kicking out 18ACV across all 3 phases and nothing from the DC side, this will account for the problems aftter starting. The condensor acts like a battery, they are used instead and they very very rarely break down. I am looking for a spare regulator now, I someone knows for one give me a shout

Thanks again all