just pulls out ??

nick

and one more thing i just noticed the pad retaining pin the last guy to undo it rounded the allen key bolt,
any sugestions on how to get this out ...

nick.

[quote="NaBz"]and one more thing i just noticed the pad retaining pin the last guy to undo it rounded the allen key bolt,
any sugestions on how to get this out ...

nick.[/quote

Pin nose mole grip type pliers between pads when calipers of its mountings??.

caliper not mounted
but could bang it on one of the fork legs/swing arm
cheers m8,
at first i thought i riped the bolt in half but then realised there is cap then pin after i thought few it didnt just tear the bolt apart the pin is rounded
i might just take it to wear last mot was as they changed front and rear pad when it failed mot!!!!
bastads!

any help on removing piston from caliper?

nick

Very easy to do both as long as you get it out. Mole grips would be my first call.

i'm a bit confused, the part you have circled shouldnt need to come out at all
this part shoul slide with the caliper.
If you want to remove the piston in the caliper, the easiest way is pump it out with the lever, or use a grease gun or as a last resort an air gun (ON LOW PRESSURE!!)
Jon

Jonorow wrote:i'm a bit confused, the part you have circled shouldnt need to come out at all
this part shoul slide with the caliper.
If you want to remove the piston in the caliper, the easiest way is pump it out with the lever, or use a grease gun or as a last resort an air gun (ON LOW PRESSURE!!)
Jon

Er me to that's the floating part of the caliper[goes into a greased rubber housing on other part of the caliper].

As jon said though easy on the pressure used to pop out the piston, they come out of bore like a bullet

ya i know it dont need to come out i just posted a pic of the other mess
sry for the confusion

Hi Nabz,
The hex socket brake pins, which I think you mean have been rounded out, are hard as buggery.. I hope you dont have to resort to drilling em out. If you manage to unscrew them with Moleys, then replace em with aftermarket pins that have an 8mm socket head. You can get em lots of places, but, of course, Off Road Only do em, just 2 lengths, thats the only choice..50mm or 35mm long, £4.95 each ( or titanium ones at about a fiver each!). Make sure you re-assemble with a smear of copper grease for future Tommy Cooper syndrome. (They'll undo---just like that!)
Dont grab the outer surface of the piston..it should be very shiny and blemish free. Its possible to polish them up, but dont use anything much more than Brasso. Id also recommend gently easing the seal out and cleaning the groove it sits in. Make sure you note which way its fitted, as the 'V' profile on it is the important bit that very slightly draws the piston back a little when you release the lever pressure. This is what stops the piston, and therefore pads dragging against the disc when you release the lever.

cheers for the help guys will take em to mot place today let them deal with it..
if not they passed my bikes mot just after failing it on the front and rear pad but they never changed the front pads then they passed it they only changed the rear..so im guessing they couldnt get it out,
lost my molers atm cooper grease on the ready

thanks for the help guys

nick

well....

they got one out but not the other looks like i will have to drill it out,
hopefully all goes well.....to be continued

nick

I generally get the pistons out using the master cylinder, ie with the brake still plumbed in.

A grease gun works well, as it will clip nicely onto the bleed nipple and will give you 10,000 psi or so. Only any help if you are intending to completely strip and clean the caliper though.

As for that pin in the photo, are you sure you need to remove it? it looks like the caliper slide pin, and can stay in.

NaBz wrote:ya i know it dont need to come out i just posted a pic of the other mess
sry for the confusion

i think i should put a descriptoin with my pics