Hi guys, been away for a bit, little one keepin us busy!!!

My MK1's clutch is almost on it's last legs so i need a bit of guidance re replacing it. Is it a tough job for a novice mechanic or will i need some techy help from an experienced person? I also see a kit from LT will set me back £70 approx so is there anywhere cheaper to get plates, springs etc?

Any help appreciated guys!! RD.

What do you mean - 'On its last legs'?

Easy to get off if you make a clutch tool like I did and have a long bar to get the clutch nut off. Not complicated just make sure you have what you need to get the job finished. eg. gasket(s). Take a look at the water pump shaft while you are in there.

Cheers Knackered.
I meant it's nearly had it!!
I'll take a look at the water pump shaft but didn't you say Honda have none left? If it needs replacing what am i gonna do!!?? Where do i look to find out about your clutch tool cos i'll need to make one? Thanks again Knackered. Much appreciated as ever.

Answers in my project there are young Skywalker.

Yes yes, teach me you will......

knackeredMk1 wrote:What do you mean - 'On its last legs'?

Easy to get off if you make a clutch tool like I did and have a long bar to get the clutch nut off. Not complicated just make sure you have what you need to get the job finished. eg. gasket(s). Take a look at the water pump shaft while you are in there.

EBC do a patten clutch fibre plate.Does R.D. need a clutch holding tool to replace the plates I have found a SOFT piece of alli bar slotted between the drive gear ,and clutch basket gear is usually capable of locking the engine up enough to undo the 6x 10mm holding/ spring tensioning bolts IMO.
The dreaded Halfords do a 12v impact driver in 1/2 " drive for about £20 you can run it straight of a car battery .A handy bit of kit to have even you never use it what does that mean .
It will normally spin the clutch nut of without an other holding equipment required.

Hi RD,
Ive used a 2p piece in the past to 'jam' the basket and drive shaft gear, as its pretty soft and doesnt damage owt else.
A cheap 1/2 drive socket strong arm can be had by searching out those telescopic wheel braces that lots of places sell...they have a reversible 17mm and 19mm socket on the end, but you can pull that off and you have a decent length 1/2 drive bar. They can be had for about £4 upwards and the extra leverage helps with the clutch centre nut.
Swopping a clutch is actually pretty straightforward, as its basically plates out..new plates in.
Like knacked says, do some prep first and get a new clutch cover gasket and Id make sure youve got a roll of that mechanics paper, as even though you'll drain the gearbox oil, there'll still be some around the clutch area. Spend some times wiping the area clean inside the casing too. The longest part of the job maybe ensuring the cover gasket face and crankcase gasket face are nice and spotless for a good oiltight seal on final assembly.
Ohh..makes sure you coat each new plate with some new, clean gearbox oil (whichever brew you use) as you assemble it. Gives the little dears an easy start in life...
Regards Old KK

Use an old 2p - has much more copper (softer) than new ones.

KK is right about covering the new plates with oil. Probably best to soak tham overnight. Forgot that bit

When we did Cronyx,s clutch recently the hardest job was the scraping of of the old baked hard gasket.Get hold of a tin of that gasket remover/ softener your almost certainly going to need it .
Not being organised i had to resort to cutting dozens of scrapers made from soft ali., when gripped in a pair of mole grips this would give about a dozen passes before loosing its edge, but most important, its softer than the casing gasket face.
The small squares of ali could be turned around to use all 4 edges before being discarded.

Ta for all the replies guys. Will get onto it ASAP! RD.

Hi RD,
Ive had a feel behind the sofa (well..it was my birthday!) and found a couple old 2p's.. you can have em for 10p each...

'You can take the man out of Cornwall, but you cant take the Cornish outta the man'...

I use a stanley knife blade to remove the old gasket as it will lay pretty flat when used out of the knife.

knackeredMk1 wrote:Use an old 2p - has much more copper (softer) than new ones.

Scan through your loose change with a magnet, and choose a non-magnetic 2p piece.

You might think I am pulling your legs, but the newer "copper" coins are steel coated in copper.

Good evening
can anybody help me, a couple of weeks ago, while trawling through the site I came across a postwith pictures showing a clutch basket removal tool and a plate for splitting the crankcase
the plate was square with five holes drilled (I think it could be fallen Mike the bike or knackered
I have tried several times to retrace my steps and can't find it.

wool

See my project in Motard section. - viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3484&start=0