more power valve questions

[dnfdaly2]

whilst i understand running without power valve will effect performance

will it effect the engine when purely on idle?
ta

[knackeredMk1]

It shouldn't effect idle at all in that if it stays in the same place and idling is adjusted to allow for the powervalve position. Not sure what would happen if the powervalve were to open when idling . Anyone know .

Shouldn't happen anyway.

[dnfdaly2]

[quote="knackeredMk1"]It shouldn't effect idle at all in that if it stays in the same place and idling is adjusted to allow for the powervalve position. Not sure what would happen if the powervalve were to open when idling :? . Anyone know :?: .

Shouldn't happen anyway.[/quote]

thats what i would have thought
thats me stuffed then---thanks

[wb]

On the CRM I'm currently renovating (I have no real experience of the CRM yet really) I discovered yesterday that the powervale wasn't working at all, and was stuck in the fully open position. I can confirm that it will run (and tick over) fine, but will feel a bit gutless at the bottom end. The trade off is that you get a proper old school 2 stroke power band when the revs get to the fun zone! Seems to be that the PGM was faulty as when I swapped it over for the one on the other CRM I have I got back full PV functionality. Whilst it now has considerably more grunt off the bottom end, the power curve is very flat and, well, a bit dull really... I suspect I may end up doing a bit of porting in order to try to give it more of that funky two stroke kick at the top end later on as It will be primarily a road rather than a trail bike once it's fully rehabilitated so I'm happy to sacrifice a bit of the grunt from walking pace for more zap at the top end.

Oh yeah, the other difference is that it's much louder at tickover with the PV wedged fully open. Before I twigged that the PV wasn't working I was assuming that the can was in desperate need of re-packing.

[SkidMark]

wb - you say you changed the PGM and then the powervalve started working - make sure you check out the Reg/Rect as this is the common reason that PGM's break I believe. Otherwise you may find that the new one you put on dies also.

[wb]

Thanks for the tip, but, er, can you tell me how to check it? I've never checked a reg/rect before so don't know how to go about it... I have a multimeter though so if I know what I'm looking for I should be able to manage...

TIA

[SkidMark]

use the search function to find the thread by scrubs which is a complete procedure to fault find a PV problem

[fallenmikethebike]

Thanks for the tip, but, er, can you tell me how to check it? I've never checked a reg/rect before so don't know how to go about it... I have a multimeter though so if I know what I'm looking for I should be able to manage...

TIA

I think if you ask nicely the Kernow Knight might be able to best describe the testing procedure , his electronics knowledge seems to outshine the rest of us .
You could also ring LT , but they would probably just advice renewing said item, which i would possibly agree with , PGM £450
reg/rec £75 approx.There are a couple of firms on line who sell new units at the above price .
West country windings ,perversely now located in Harrow , may also sell them or repair them.
Tel 01279 731172
You used to get the same choice with the old DT125s , power valve open , a big bloooooor then 2000 rpm of hit , or power valve closed, first to 30 mph and then get retaken by every thing you just got away from .
regards Mike