PWK on a Mk2

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back off road
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PWK on a Mk2

Post by back off road » 04 Sep 2011, 10:42

anyone done the pwk carb swap on a Mk2 ?

looking at a 36mm , with CR 250 reed block and intake rubber aswell been as the std crm intake rubber looks very restricted
Im thinking about a bike with more valves than a powervalve

Jeram
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Re: PWK on a Mk2

Post by Jeram » 04 Sep 2011, 11:21

Only real issue I ran into is that the carb lengths are slightly different, the PWK is a little shorter I believe.
But thats something that can be easily rectified.

oh and the mouth on my 38 is fricking huge so I have to head the aixbox up so that I could stretch the carb on. hopefully the mouth on your 36 is a little smaller.

oh and I think the CR's with the same boot manifold bolt pattern as the CRM are the older cylinder induction models, not the case induction like the CRM. therefor the boot angles might be a little off, again no real biggie as boots a cheap so you can try a few.

Jeram
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Re: PWK on a Mk2

Post by Jeram » 04 Sep 2011, 11:26

PS: that was for the AR... not the MK2... sorry :)

Im sure most of that info carries over to the MK2 though

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ittakir
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Re: PWK on a Mk2

Post by ittakir » 06 Sep 2011, 06:35

PWK38 fits not so good.
I've changed std boot port and reed valve to boyesen RAD-02 from CR250'89. It fits ok, and has metal pipe plus rubber port wich is very useful to fit non-standart carb.
The other side of carb is too big for CRM's airbox, so i've grinded some metal from carb with file. Now it fits very well.
One big problem is TPS sensor. It rests against frame. So I recommend to use PWK without TPS sensor.
All is about mk3.
I don't know how it affect performance because the job is not yet done.

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Re: PWK on a Mk2

Post by Jeram » 07 Sep 2011, 13:33

Id dare say the 38 is too big to run on a stock crm cylinder :S

will have good top end but crappy fuelling down low, thats my suspicion anyway.
whereas my cr cylinder can handle the high flows that the carb can supply.

yeah I found the TPS fowls on the frame too, so I simply mounted my carb rotated sideways slightly so that it no longer does!

I found that a heat gun to warm the airbox and some grease was all that was needed to mount the 38 carb, but if I had the time machining the carb mouth is definitely an idea :)

If I have any troubles with my current billet boot and hoses Ill have to get a CR boot like yours... thanks for the tip


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