A while ago the PV side of my ECU was faulty, so I bought a new ECU and rectifier regulator. I did test the old rectifier, and all the values seemed fine according to posts on here, so I kept it as a spare.

No my new rectifier on the CR/CRM I managed to smash the majority of the cooling fins off when doing jumps - mounted too close to rear shock!! :( I did compress the suspension when checking clearances etc, and it seemed fine. However when doing jumps it fouled, and I did a bit of moto-x the other week, and as I say it smashed most of the cooling fins off.

Obviously I need to find a new place to mount my regulator, constraints being it needs to have long enough wires for wherever it goes, and be in a place where it will keep cool. I mounted it in exactly the same place as is on a standard CRM, however this is obviously no good for doing jumps etc.

Anyway, I wish to use the old regulator as he body is intact, but how can I be sure that it won't harm my ECU? I put the ECU damage down to the PV cables being in terrible condition when I bougth the bike, probably overloading the current.

Cheers.

Shaun.

i would say you can lengthen the cables with out too much issue - I did a fair bit of wiring audio stuff including power supplies in the past.-
as long as you use similar weight wire - not stuff u used to connect your hifi speakers - but extending by about 50 cm wouldn't have a massive effect.. would need to be meters in length before it would really affect..

I totally melted my old Reg/rec's connector block - wires in the loom and one of those cheap plastic connectors you clamp down wires with screws was turned to a marshmellow ... .. and in the end it still seems like it still works ok... ( ie I now have a spare reg/rec as well )

sounds like yours should be ok since it never failed before?

No, it did not fail. However my ECU did and I wonder if this was caused by/has resulted ina. Dodgy rec/reg. The last thing I want to do is break another ECU... Especially as the current one is Mugen. I'D rather no chop into wires to lengthen if I can help it as it can open up more areas for poor reliability.

sure understand that caution regarding the ECU! ( might put my new reg/rec on for the hell of it now,,, keep old one as spare? )

regarding the lengthening of the wires.. forced to have a look at what lurks inside the loom its self last week - Mr Honda thinks a good quality insulating tape is adequate on some pretty important connections... ( ie reg/rec output links to ignition and condenser just before the wires to the PV pop out the loom,,, I should have took photo's cos there's a fair amount of blue PVC tape under there courtesy of Honda.

for me when reconnecting my loom - I twisted the wires together then soldered them,, I used some heat shrink to insulate each join afterwards - then wrapped the 3 individually insulated wires with a bit of gaffa tape...

maybe your suspension needs a look at? if u squashing the bottom of the airbox?

Suspension is fine and doesnt touch air box. On the original bike the rec/reg was mounted up near the headstock. Ive used that bracket for the horn and capacitor which works well. I'll have a look and re-think. Nqin thing is it needs mounting where good cool air flow will reach it.

How about inside the air box? there's always a flow of air through there.
Give the cooling fins a good clean up, and coat with some ACF fluid.
Mike

Anyone know if it's safe to use my old one and will not harm my ecu?

Don't know but the cooling fins were put on there for a reason and if you are putting the reg/rec somewhere where it will get less air flow there must be some risk involved .

Yes I know and agreed with the above, question is whether I can safely use my old rectifier which I replaced when I replaced the faulty ECU. I tested it, and all seems OK.

Only you can make that assesment...........

the fins jus transfer heat.. so i would think if u can use a liquid metal to glue some fins back on it should help.. if u mounted it on a metal plate that also conducted heat away and got some fins on that it would also help... its just about getting heat away from the diodes....

if u can run without lights etc? then the electrical load will be lower so wont require to work so hard so wont get so hot..

but I can tell u this much... my regulator got VERY hot.. and melted 2 plastic connectors and ran with melted wires for quite some time ...... and its still working! but it does have fins.....

but like knackered said its your call !