Electrical problem...fuses? Also brake switch install help.

[fallenmikethebike]

hi these diode things are what ive been playing with. I tried a 12 volt battery on the plug that goes behind the headlight but the leds lasted 3 secs and blew. So i put a volt meter on the wires at the led end and found that only 6 volts was was supplied to the led. So my 12 volt replacement led numberplate bolts still work ( oil & temp warning lights ). So i assumed that said diodes are just to convert 12 volts into 6 volts as in 6 volt led. God knows why. I would try a 12 volt bulb or tester in place of the diode then if it works just use a 12 volt equipment hope this helps. By the way i have just tried a wireless digi speedo and the running of the engine knacked up the signal.

I use a digi speedo, but it's one for a push bike, but it works fine, well up to 99mph anyway i got it from Halfords £12.00 9 functions, trip, max speed, time , ect , ect .

[kernow krusty]

WOW WOW WOW!!!
yes, they are diodes...but they are Light Emitting Diodes...LEDs. Its tru that diodes act like a non return valve, only allowing current to flow one way. A standard diode WILL NOT regulate the voltage. A Zener diode WILL regulate to a preset voltage. CRM's have no zener diodes fitted.
LEDs are quite sensitive to voltage...an LED on its own, when connected to more than about 2v, will blow. To drive an LED at any higher voltages, you need a limiting resistor in line with it..the value of the resistor determines what voltage you can connect it across.
Also, LEDs are polarity concious...i.e they have a + and - lead...get it wrong..and pop..another one bites the dust.
Im in the middle of doing away with my OEM CRM speedo/lamp cluster and fitting with LEDS in a small ally bracket..the Neutral, main beam and turn lamps will be fed with 12v (well about 14 when running)...from memory, these are ordinary filament bulbs...
Only the oil warning and over temp are actually LEDs and Ive not yet checked the voltage to them..unfortunately my CRM is about 3000 miles away right now..
The good news is...you can go to Maplins and buy an LED with a limiting resistor built in.. so..either Maplins, or lots of Ebay sites (stick to UK suppliers, not HOnkers Konkers..) and source a '12v DC LED'...all sorts of styles..
Im guessing the Trailtech has a neutral light option?? Check the spec..if it works from 12v, which Id expect, just connect the old neutral lamp wires to it..BUT GET EM THE RIGHT WAY ROUND!..check with a meter!
If youve measured the voltage to the oil warning and over temp LED, just source an LED that rated at that voltage.. 6v isnt uncommon.again, check Ebay.
Dont forget to check the polarity..again..lol

The brake light switch is a simple swop out..the standard switch has a wire tail of about 8 inches..I think the loom runs along the right side of the bike..and there should be a pair of wires kinda dangling in the direction of the brake pedal..down the frame rail..the good news is, it dont matter which way round you connect them..you are just making a circuit. If I had my wiring diagram, I could tell you the colours..lol..sorry!
hope this helps
Regards KK

[kernow krusty]

Ok..in all the excitement..Ive looked again..lol
Those are diodes, for sure.. the temp and oil LEDs are below..
They are inline for the neutral switch and lamp...
diodes are polarity conscious too..so if you connected your battery the wrong way round..theyd pop..
They are simple enough to replace..but Im not entirely sure why they are needed..i'll look closer..
Regards KK

[kernow krusty]

OK..chapter 3...
Ive looked closer.. the diodes are involved in the sidestand cut out switch circuit..so..if youve done away with the side stand cut out switch, they wont matter. If the wires down there got shorted..that could explain the fizzing.
If the bike still runs OK...theres no problem. The diode acts as a switch to send either an on or off signal to the CDI, stopping you from riding off with the sidestand down..ie...sidestand down, neutral light on...no problem. side stand down, engage a gear...engine stops..(well..thats how Mr Honda designed it!).
If youve got 12v at the neutral wires, when in neutral and the bike runs and starts, just check the wires at the sidestand for bare floaters..tape em up...
Should be OK...
Please note, all advice is guaranteed till the end of your garden path/driveway...
Regards KK

[SkidMark]

all hail the wiser person - nice analysis KK. I totally missed the link to the sidestand switch... (I told you it was a 'best' guess )

[briangoo]

kernow any chance of a photo of your alloy bracket ive done the same with a peice of plastic but have thought of doing the same as you so a photo of your design would be canny cheers

[kernow krusty]

kernow any chance of a photo of your alloy bracket ive done the same with a peice of plastic but have thought of doing the same as you so a photo of your design would be canny cheers

Hi Brian,
Ive got some nice LEDs to fit and the plan is in my head, but thats as far as Ive got! Im going to fit the LEDS somewhere neat, but in view and mount a small push bike style speedo.
Pics to follow, but dont check every day, sorry!
Regards KK

[L0Ki]

Good NEws. Recieved the HEL brake switch today and it's all isntalled and ready to go...except for that dang kickstart. Was actually very easy to install like you all have said except i had to find the two little connectors first as they were hidden in a mess of cables wrapped in tape.

So yea all happy now. Just waiting on a kickstart.