A few queries on my rebuild

[clint]

Hi all,

Well, today I got my engine in and it started up 3rd kick putting a massive grin on my face, I now love this bike more than I did before it tried to kill me .

I do however have a few queries...

One relates to when I rebuilt the engine.. The only piece of the jigsaw that doesn't look right (all though all parts are accounted for) is the cog that the kick start mech would drive. Does this simply push on with its collar? Like no bolt holding it in? It all seems to work but I can't remember whether there was something securing it.

The other are a couple of leaks I have. Firstly from my water pump which I think I have solved by putting sealant on the new gasket. is this the correct way? I did use new gaskets throughout but that one is leaking. The next leak is oil seeping from my crankcase. Should I have used sealant on there? I don't own a torque wrench but am going to buy one tomorrow. Would correct torque stop the oil seeping out or do I need to split it, use sealant AND torque them up correctly?

Other than that the bike appears spot on. Air mixture and tick over seem way out but I can sort that. It is smoking alot but I know it will with all the 2 stroke in there. I haven't let it run longer than about 30 seconds as I saw the leaks and switched it off. Still with a big grin on my face.

I would have never managed to do it without the information and knowledgeable folk on this site so would like to say a big THANK YOU.

Clint

[fallenmikethebike]

How clean were you able to get the mating surfaces of crankcases?
Mike

[clint]

I got every piece of gasket off and cleaned them with alcohol wipes, then white spirit, then alcohol wipes again. They looked pretty clean to me but this is the first time I've ever done anything like this. Some parts of the mating surface looked discoloured but I wouldn't dare use anything harder than my finger nail and a plastic scraper.

[clint]

I'd also like to add the oil leak isn't exactly a leak. It's more of a seep. I could see oil when it ran, none dripped. I wiped it off then and now several hours later none is on the floor but the beginning of a drip has appeared

[twistednuts]

Might just want an extra nip, just don't go mad.

A torque wrench is a good idea, but sometimes the stated torque value in the book isn't always correct when using old bolts. But its near enough for a crank case. Just give it an extra nip than the stated torque.

Give everywhere a good check too, it may be coming from somewhere else and tracing its way to where the drip is.

[fallenmikethebike]

You also tightened them down evenly across the entire circumference?
Yes, nip them down with torque wrench.
The gasket material should also swell slightly, so it may well heal itself in time.
Worst case, some RTV could smeared along the line of joint, not a perfect fix, but easier than an entire strip down again.
Mike

[clint]

I've tried doing all the external ones and I daren't tighten them anymore for fear of snapping them that is why I am getting a torque wrench tomorrow. Thanks for the tip about the little extra nip I shall try that if it still leaks after all bolts are torqued to spec.

I think I'm going to have to remove the clutch and all the gubbings inside that side of the engine as well to get at the ones inside but that is no big deal after what I've just done.

I'm going back out to the shed to clean the oil then cover where the crank cases join in flour so I can identify exactly and all the locations oil is coming from but it does just appear to be one spot about an inch away from drain plug.

Hope I haven't got to take the engine out again because as she stands now it just needs a bit of a fettle and I can test ride her

[clint]

[quote="fallenmikethebike"]You also tightened them down evenly across the entire circumference?
Yes, nip them down with torque wrench.
The gasket material should also swell slightly, so it may well heal itself in time.
Worst case, some RTV could smeared along the line of joint, not a perfect fix, but easier than an entire strip down again.
Mike[/quote]

Yes I did them in opposite rotation nice and evenly nipping them all to about the same sort of tightness.

[knackeredMk1]

Just a bit of grit or a mark may well be responsible .

[clint]

[quote="knackeredMk1"]Just a bit of grit or a mark may well be responsible .[/quote]

What do you think then, tighten to spec if still leaking take it apart and do it properly? I tried to get it as clean as I could so if it is a bit of grit I can see me having to do this a few times!!!! Will a new gasket be required every time I split the cases?

I really hope it just needs tightening up, then again I really hoped I just needed piston rings to start with.

[fishtail]

glad u went first clint! - yes I had some discolouration on my joints too

fingers X'd on the fix for ya! keep us informed!

[knackeredMk1]

Tighten to spec then check again - If it still leaks it is a big bit of grit, a significant mark, or a crack in the casing.

Are you convinced that it is a gasket leak and not from the drain plug .

[clint]

After a days semi successful fettling here is where I stand.....

Firstly all my panels are back on and it looks like my bike again.

The water pump cover has been off about 5 times trying to solve the leak I thought I had fixed. It looks like there was a tiny piece of old gasket on there but I knackered the new one up so I've temp fixed it by applying sealant to the outside. I am going to have to get leisure trail to post me one and have another go there but that is no major worry.

The oil leak is coming from 2 places and both are where bolts go inside the clutch side. Didn't get a torque wrench so not bothered stripping that side down yet but as it is where the bolt appears to go I reckon correct torque will sort it. I won't know till the weekend when I get a torque wrench (cost more than I expected)/time to work on bike. If that doesn't work looks like I will have to split the cases again. Now I've had a "trial run" I'm sure I will manage it next time. Will be using the grease to keep gasket still trick and making 100% sure cases are as clean as I can get them.

Broke a couple of things today (typical me surprised that is all I've broke). When I was bleeding the 2 stroke pump I snapped the little brass nipple that the pipe to intake boot goes on (pump side). Can I buy just the nipple or will I need a new 2t pump? Also snapped 2 bolts in the gear shifter but got both out. can't seem to get it tight enough not to slip but on inspection the teeth inside looks shot so I am going to buy another one. Was meaning to buy a nice one anyway does anyone know off hand what cr gear peg will fit? 92 cr 250 maybe?

Because of this I haven't managed a ride yet but I've had it started plenty and it starts 1st kick every time

Once these little niggles are out the way I'm going to run it in (do a couple of tanks of fuel without thrashing it) then take the engine out again. Full on makeover coming up as soon as I'm confident I've done the rebuild correctly.

All said and done it hasn't been has hard as I expected but I'm not quite there yet.

[fallenmikethebike]

To the best of my knowledge, only crm gear levers will fit as there quite a chunky shaft.
Mike

[clint]

Damn, was quite looking forward to getting a nice one too Any idea about the brass fixings for the 2 stroke pump? Do these come off/are available to buy or am I going to have to replace the whole pump?