An aluminium square ended bar is more forgiving, but will need frequent redressing.
VERY approximately, one turn of the preload ring equates to about 3mm of shock adjustment -/+.
Mark the bottom ring with an indelible pen before starting the adjustment.
Pre spray with your favourite brand of easing oil the night before.
Wear gloves, skinned knuckles stay sore forever
Take the weight of the shock by using a stand to elevate the back wheel.
Also someone to jog the back end up and down might be helpful.
Happy hammering.
Mike

I couldnt seem to shift it back in jan when i eventually got round to having a go at it. But with the weather clearing a little (stop laughing) I ordered a set of 110mm (centres) dogbones to be made up as a quick fix so i can actually get out there and ride the thing a bit. Will put them on later and test it out as soon as i have rebuilt the front caliper and master cylinder.

I just cant seem to get the front brake to give any bite. I have looked for a master cylinder but at the price they all were i was risking buying a duffer so i have just stripped the whole brake system to check for anything obvious wrong with it (which I cant see). Cleaned it all up as well as i can, elbow grease and an ultrasonic cleaner have made a little difference but the caliper is grotty as hell still! I even used alloy wheel cleaner in an attempt to shift some of the marks but no use.


Its clean where it matters now though in the bore and seal slots so I will rebuild it tonight hopefully and stick the new dogbones on just see if it makes a difference for the better. I would buy a master cylinder kit just in case its that but i havent a clue what master cylinder is on it now so dont know what to buy.

How on earth do you test a master cylinder? If the master cylinder doesnt leak fluid from the piston, does that simply mean its fine?

And- any tips on bleeding it, i have tried normal, reverse, vacum (ie pulling on syringe at the bleeder) - none made a difference to the lever, it stops, but the lever comes back to the bars - hence lack of use.

Are you using the tube in a jar technique? If so you can see if the master cylinder is pumping by the flow of fluid in the tube.

Are you also getting bubbles popping up into the master cylinder? If so just keep flicking the brake lever.

Keep at it and it will eventually work, might take a while but it will

i was using one of these one man bleeding tubes (with ball bearing type thing in it).

From memory it didnt come out with much force to be honest so i reverted to pumping the fluid in (or sucking it out) with the a syringe

After stripping the caliper it had a dribble of horrible black liquid. Never seen a brake piston quite like the ones in the crm either! they look like plastic with a metal top. When i took the caliper off the bike i was convinced the piston was in the wrong way! until i popped it out as saw the back of the piston.

I did notice a few little bubbles coming back up into the m/c but couldnt find a fluid leak anywhere.

What ive found is until you get all them bubbles up into the master, it wont do much at the piston end.

I just use a clear tube into a jar. Quickly pump lever till all bubbles have gone from master. Open bleed nipple, give lever a good pump, hold lever in. Tighten nipple (finger tight will do) Let out lever.

Then start all over again but dont pump lever, just pull it in quick and hold in. Tighten bleed nipple etc.

Just make sure you keep the rezzy topped up.

Be patient dude. Ive never had a prob with them

mmm but if i have pumped fluid in from the bleeder, up to the m/c you would imagine there would be v little air in there at all! still no pressure. Better get me a big pot of brake fluid and crack on with it the normal way you have described for me.

Nightmare. Doesnt help that i am unconvinced by the m/c but dont know what bike it is off. Its not a crm one as its got a pressure swith on the banjo bolt for the brake light.

longmoreuk wrote:mmm but if i have pumped fluid in from the bleeder, up to the m/c you would imagine there would be v little air in there at all! still no pressure. Better get me a big pot of brake fluid and crack on with it the normal way you have described for me.

Nightmare. Doesnt help that i am unconvinced by the m/c but dont know what bike it is off. Its not a crm one as its got a pressure swith on the banjo bolt for the brake light.

That mismatch could well be the problem. However, you should be able to get some pressure on the lever.
It,s sometimes worth while just TAPPING GENTLY, the calliper and pipe, to help dislodge the more stubborn bubbles.
I found my MK3 front brake was also woeful until I fitted an after market lever, and this made the world of difference.
Mike

I suspect the problem is that there are bubles still caught in the line. I had real problems with this on both front and back brakes. The only thing to do iss to get a straight vertical line from the master cylinder to the calliper. Any bends or dips will cause problems. Try suspending the system from the calliper overnight and take a good few pumps in that position if you can. Took me several attempts to work this out.

had a right good go at it last night - whilst it is def better its still not great. I also changed the dogbones over to the ones i had made up and i feel a lot more comfortable sitting on it, at least in the garage - will have to try it out properly to see the effect it has had.

Brakes - I think i may have to go down the route of taking it all off and suspending it in a straight line like you say for a few days. I literally pumped approx about 2 litres of dot 4 through the system in total, reverse bled it first too as it was a pain in the butt to even get fluid in at all !

I bled it the normal way till no bubbles coming out at all, I flicked the lever like a mad man to get any small bubbled out the master cylinder, yet there must still be air in it somewhere as it is spongy. I did rattle round the system to try and dislodge any stubborn bubbles.

I wonder if i took the pads out and let the pistons travel out a bit whether that would help?, it would give some space in the caliper for fluid and hopefully force any air out when i push the pistons back in. may try that too. I will get there ! never had issues like this bleeding brakes before so i dont understand it.

should the ignition key open the helmet lock? There is also some sort of capsule type box underneath the subframe on the left hand side - my key wont open that either. I only noticed both of them as i was changing the dogbone. Intrigued to find out whats in the 'black box' now! as there is something rattling about in there. is it going to have to be a screwdriver job?

Black box is a tool box. Your ignition key should open it. There is a helmet holder as well - your key should do that as well.

Your brake hose might be goosed. It should have removed all the air pushing 2 litres of fluid through!!

Is the one you have braided or the smooth black original?

Twisted - I had terrible trouble getting the air out of my brakes even with brand new braided hoses. It seemed like any bend would collect air and no amount of pumping fluid past would move them without straightening the hoses.

When the caliper's suspended high and the brake line is straight, tapping or vibrating the line somehow should help adjitate the bubbles and cause them to rise to the surface (ie banjo)....... Least I guess this would work?

I must just be lucky

im only 5.6 and running my mk2 with cr forks and seat (which add hight) i can't touch the floor properly but its not a bother just keep moving