Connecting a battery to test the electrics

[Eddie Evans]

Is there a way of connecting a battery up on the CRM purely so that I can work on the electrics with the engine off.
I love the smell of 2 stroke but there is a limit to how much my lungs will take especially with the door closed in the winter.
Thanks

[SkidMark]

I guess you could disconnect the plug (2 wires) just of the Reg/Rect and connect a battery in there. I think that would let you work on lights but if you are trying to fault find an ignition problem or warning lights then thats a bit more complicate as they are affected by the CDI (at least on an AR). Check out the wiring diagram. Anyone else tried it?

[Slasher]

check my advise relating ar indicators and the fitting of led lights inthe past, 6 months ago at aguess but hes right, positive wire to I think the black wire on the smoothing capasitor fitted between tank/rad panel and frame/headstock negetive any where on the frame.

[Eddie Evans]

Thank you both. I'll give it a go.

[kernow krusty]

Hi Eddie,
Ive just tried this on my Mk2. I disconnected the capacitor/condenser behind the headlight (its the cylindrical unit), leaves a 2 way plug with green and red wires going to it. Then connected a bike battery, positive to red and negative to green. This let me check the lights, neutral light, horn, speedo backlighting and main beam indicator. (Ive got no indicators or side stand switch fitted).
Was ideal for checking rear light and brake light switches and the other bits mentioned.
For best safety, Id fit an inline fuse if you are connecting a bike or car battery, just in case things touch that shouldnt! Theres enough capacity in a bike battery to frazzle a loom let alone a car battery!
Dont be tempted to use a battery charger, as most of them are unregulated, so with no load or a very light load, they can put out more than 20v.
Regards Tony

[Eddie Evans]

Hi Eddie,
Ive just tried this on my Mk2. I disconnected the capacitor/condenser behind the headlight (its the cylindrical unit), leaves a 2 way plug with green and red wires going to it. Then connected a bike battery, positive to red and negative to green. This let me check the lights, neutral light, horn, speedo backlighting and main beam indicator. (Ive got no indicators or side stand switch fitted).
Was ideal for checking rear light and brake light switches and the other bits mentioned.
For best safety, Id fit an inline fuse if you are connecting a bike or car battery, just in case things touch that shouldnt! Theres enough capacity in a bike battery to frazzle a loom let alone a car battery!
Dont be tempted to use a battery charger, as most of them are unregulated, so with no load or a very light load, they can put out more than 20v.
Regards Tony

Thanks. I will try this when I next have an electrical problem.

[Jonorow]

good tip that, its a nightmare trying to sort out the rear lights with the engine running (cant hold my breath that long). well done that man.

[knackeredMk1]

I have been waiting to initate this discussion but it's all been done I think I will rig up a PP3 9v battery where the capacitor sits as I hope not enough voltage and current to upset things.

[scrubs]

you should be ok knackered. I stupidly and in desperation hooked up my bike to a 12v mains powerpack (Don't ask)
It made a nasty noise, but nothing broke.

Talking of batterys...was it you that fitted a 12v in the airbox for a GPS? if so, does it charge up ok and did you just take the
a straight feed post re/rec?

[knackeredMk1]

Not me

[kernow krusty]

Hi scrubs,
Ive not yet stuck a meter on my Mk 2 to see what comes out of the regulator, voltage wise, but, as long as its not more than 14v, which I doubt it is, thatd charge a battery fine. Make sure you use a lead acid sealed type though, as these arent too fussy about how they get charged and you can mount them anyway up. (Maplins do a range, and to drive a GPS, a 2A/h would be fine). The latest Ni-Mh types are very good, but are supposed to be charged in a much more controlled way than the CRM reg will allow.
Id consider even making up a Ni-Mh pack to give you extra life as it would be more compact than an equivalent lead acid pack, but youd have to take it off the bike to charge, so not quite as convenient.
The condenser/capacitor (cylinder shaped unit) mounted behind the headlight also helps, as it will 'filter' and smooth the volts floating around the system.

[scrubs]

Cheers KK,

I purchased one of these a while back http://www.touratech-usa.com/shop/show. ... u=030-0020
I fit it the morning my engine seized, just after I hooked it up I started the bike and heard a noise comiing
from what at the time assumed to be coming from the stator...anyway..an hour later the engine seized..
I am unsure whether this noise was the noisy mainbearing going on the left - which it did - or the external
regulator drawing too much current(or a mixture of both) so I'm a bit dubious to try again (as I say the
rattling was probably the bearing going) do you think 200 ma is askinga bit too much? they do a 160ma
version too, in hindsight I should have gone for that this is designed more for roadbook holders aswell
as a GPS. What do you reckon? I was just taking a feed from the headlight through the regulator to the gps.

[kernow krusty]

Hi Scrubs,
This may go on a bit, so get yerself a cuppa first!
Now I see what youve got. Its basically a voltage regulator aimed at unrefined and low tech makes and models of bikes that dont have our CRM's hi tech rectifier/regulator fitted to their electrics!
Firstly, unless you connected it the wrong way round to the CRM's loom (got yer positives and negatives mixed up!), in which case it wouldnt have worked at all, theres not really any way that it would distress the CRM stator by overloading. A 5 watt tail light bulb draws nearly 500mA. A 35 watt headlight bulb draws about 3000mA. Once you think about all the other lil backlights, panel lamps, brake light, warning lights and even the horn, 200mA is nowt to worry about.
On a techy side, the unit itself wont draw 200mA just by being connected. The current draw will occur when you connect the GPS to it. With nothing connected to it, the unit will probably take a nominal 5-10 mA.
Which GPS do you want to feed? My garmin GPS76 will take an external power source of anything between 8-35v. This would happily run straight from the CRM's system without any extra bits between.
Let me know what make and model GPS you wanna fit, and I'll investigate what would be the best way to do it.
look to yer knacked mains for the failure....
Hope this helps..
Regards Tony

[scrubs]

cheers Tony. Its a Garmin 60 CSx. It taks a range of voltage input, but can't recall what off hand.
I was gonna wire it straight to the head light at first without the extra regulator
but wasent sure if the standard CRM reg would would create spikes and stuff and be bad for the GPS.

[kernow krusty]

A 60Csx!! you flash bugger!
My day job means we are agents for garmin, so we sell these!
Ok, the 60Csx will take 10-32v in on its lead. To be honest. it'll last 18 hours on a set of AA's, and if you get the rechargeables, you could carry a spare set and have over 30 hours of use...
I'll see how stable the volts are on my Mk2, but to be honest, garmin kit is well made, and they know its likely to be hitched up to a range of scabby quads, outboards, solar panels, jetskis, snowmobiles etc.. all of which have similar style leccy systems to the CRM.
I'll see what mines like and let you know...