hi all. finally managed to suscribe to this excelent site (seeing as i own a crm). big thanks to paul for the help. my names martin and have owned a 98 AR for just over 7 years and i live in the middle of knowere, originally from the south of uk.
NEED HELP!
the bike has been pretty much hassle free up till now, had a problem with the cut of switch couple of years back but thats about it.
ok! about 5 month ago i changed the gearbox oil and spark plug, had a little twiddle with the carb and took her out for a rip. about 6km into the rip and cough, splutter, cough, splutter then bogged out and died. it was a really hot day and i was riding hard. 1 kick and she fired right up tickover was fine, throttled on and bogged out again but diddn't die managed to get home on 3rd throttle but any more than 3rd throttle and bogged out?
ok! i have had 5 months of head scratching and to cut a very long story short. the prob is the rc valve.
the bike revs fine if i work the rc valve manually, which indicates that the cdi is ok. i have tested the rectifier, ok. i have tested the servo and motor and gears all ok. i have tested all wiring for brakes and dirty connections all ok. head scratch, head scratch.

now a chap by the name of GOD posted a manual on this very site a couple of weeks back now (section 15 and 16 missing, gutted! if your still out there GOD please hook me up as think these sections would be very helpfull for my problem) which has been very usefull. i have noticed that there are allot of factors that come into working the rc valve.

i have noticed that the bypass controll solonoid (SAJC SOL) has a role to play and mine looks not so good. i have posted a picture of this part and my bike on photobucket (2stroker_photo). it looks like it has expanded. does any1 know how to test this part? am i barking up the wrong tree?

[URL=http://s781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98 ... ure003.jpg][IMG]http://i781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98 ... ure003.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98 ... 008006.jpg][IMG]http://i781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98 ... 008006.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98 ... C00852.jpg][IMG]http://i781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98 ... C00852.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
[URL=http://s781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98 ... C00927.jpg][IMG]http://i781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98 ... C00927.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

desperate to get the old girl ripin again. i hope you boys with all your experiance on this bike can help. i also have some bits and bobs for sale, which i will let you all know about once she's ripin again. have done a few mopds (weight saving) hence got a few bits and bob's, speedo, light unit etc etc...
look forward to any reply.
many thanks mart.:)))

Take the carb apaert and clean out the jets. Sounds like a classic 'blocked main jet scerario'.

Hi Martin

This valve is in a normally closed configuration - with no power supplied to the connections the pipes remain unconnected. If you blow down one pipe, no air should flow - the application of 12v allows the air to pass through the valve. Although I doubt this is your problem, if you need to order a new one, the number is 36162-KAE-771. Do you have a circuit diagram? If not I can email you one.

Regards, BB.

If the power valve is not opening but the servo is fine, I'd bet that the ECU has died. On your AR, the CDI is actually an ECU that drives the ignition and also the servo. It tends to be the servo circuit that dies and not the ignition circuit so the bike still sparks and runs but the valve gets stuck at some point and doesn't move. Unfortunately, the fix is a new ECU and it's not cheap.

hi ya lads. thanks for the reply's.
in state of depresion because think that AlanH has hit the nail on the head. i thought this enitially but have tried my hardest to try and find something else. my bike has a mugen systen on it, not cheap as we all know.

the first post i put on this may have been a bit confusing because when i stated the bike boggs out it doesn't really boggout it is more like a restrictor has been fitted to cut in at about 3000 revs, sounds like a lawnmower and no power.

if the solonoid unit i mentioned was faulty would it cause this problem? only reason i ask is if you look at the picture i have on photobucket? it really dont look right. i would be well pissed off if went to all trouble and expense of buying new ECU and still the same problem.

i am guessing there is no way to test ecu unit?

i also gathered info on "ingnitech" few months back, liked what i saw including price tag's.

is the programable unit worth having? is it worth playing about with it?

or would it best to just get another mugen unit?

Rinkya i know have always got units, mugen and standard. not brought nothing from them yet but with my location think shipping wont be a problem.
what are the chances of buying a mugen unit from rinkya and recieving a standard unit with a sticker on it?
peace out. mart.