Ow do all. I'm about halfway between York and Hull and in the market for something to do some fairly gentle off-roading on. I'm currently talking to a gent about buying his mkI CRM. I went to view it yesterday. He wants £1100 for it.

However, and please excuse my ignorance here, I'm not actually sure it *is* a mkI. For instance, I notice on the pages here ("CRM250 Model History") regarding the mkII it states that "This model was a huge step up from the MK1 with all new frame and now wears large upside down Showa forks. Oil is now held in the frame which is much larger than the MK1 and stiffer too." It may well be my incorrect interpretation but this suggests to me that the mkI was not oil in frame.

If this is the case I don't know if the bike I'm looking at is a one or two - because although it doesn't have USD forks, it is obviously oil in frame.

I do have one or two other questions but I'll leave it there for now. But suffice it to say any help will be warmly received.

The wording you are referring to is inaccurate in many ways. The frame on the Mk2 is slightly bigger but essentially the same as a Mk1 which holds the oil in the frame in exactly the same way. The main visible difference in the Mk2 is the USD forks as the Mk1 has conventional units.

BTW I would take a Mk1 any day if faced with the choice.

Thanks for the prompt and informative replay knackeredMKI - much obliged. I'm going to get a better look at the bike on tuesday or wednesday when I'll start it and hopefully get to ride it (albeit on-road and gingerly).

Went round to have a second look at the bike this morning. Got it out of the owner's garage and even managed to get out on the road - it was private, not very long, but enough to get up into third.

I'll post some pictures below. One thing someone on another forum mentioned was that the adjusters are nearly all the way out so the chain is nearing the end of its life. So that's one possible bargaining chip. How much could I try to lop off the £1100 he wants for it on the basis of needing a new chain? And let's say I can't fit the chain - so not only would I need to buy one but labour as well. A hundred? Any other suggestions welcome.

As for the bike itself, it started reasonably well considering its had no use in years (just taken for its annual mot then carbs drained and up on a jack stand thing. Idled properly once warm and off choke. Did seem to need a pinch of throttle to start. One thing that surprised me a bit was the comparative weakness of the brakes. For although I only have experience of road bikes none of them have dual discs nor even anything above average spec type brakes. So it's not like I'm used to all-powerful 6 pot callipers that can stop on a sixpence. Even so the CRM's brakes felt just about adequate at best. Looking at the discs though, they did seem a bit insubstantial. I mean, I'm sure they compare well to those fitted to rival makes and models of the year - but even so. I was still a little taken aback. Thus an unfair and difficult question - is this normal? One last point - the sprockets are not OEM, or at least, the rear one isn't. It's been changed for one that gives more acceleration, or so I was told. The original one will however come with the bike (haven't checked the condition of that - something I need to do), along with some oil and the lift stand.

Now for some pics:

Looks like a very neat and original Mk1 you have there.

Chain & sprockets - Using different from original may mean that the rear spindle has to be sited near to the back even when new. BUT the rear sprocket certainly looks worn so budget £100 for the set.

Brakes -

Front - The front brakes where never much good and a 24 year old hose won't help. Get a stainless braided hose and bleed through new fluid (which you will have to do anyway) and they should be much better.

Rear looks like it's just had some new pads in and they are not bedded in yet. If you are mostly going to use off road and on a tight budget they will probably do as is but a braided hose is an option here as well.

You will probably need to service the forks and the shock if the seller can't produce any evidence of doing them recently though there doesn't look to be any leaks.

You should check if the power valve is working amongst the usual buying checks.

Also think about how you are going to use the bike when considering gearing - viewtopic.php?f=20&t=7407

If you're looking for increased performance check the FAQs .............

Thanks for the prompt and informative reply. Much appreciated.