Its getting on for a few years ago so not I'm sure how much it cost. Not so much cash but lots of time carefully repairing wiring and plastics damage. The engine rebuild was fairly cheap as I found a good donor engine so used the expensive bits out of that (top end and balancer shaft) which meant ju...

High idle and reluctance for rpm to drop is either an air leak or a sticking throttle slide.

Keith

I fitted a (very) cheap Chinese carb copy to my wifes Honda H100. It went straight on and ran perfectly. The float leaked after a year later but that was probably due to the E10 she was using. The float from the old carb fitted fine

Fingers crossed the PWK works!

Keith

Ah, that would do it! My CRM was very hard to start from cold with a scored bore and worn rings and that had over 100psi. It ran pretty good once going though!

Keith

I would also suggest having another careful look at the carb. Many people rebuild carbs these days with cheap Chinese kits. They are not always good quality. Maybe the float needle is sticking or not sealing? Either situation would cause poor starting. Intermittent faults can be a real pain but at l...

Search on ebay for that item number. Links don't always work.

Keith

eBay item number:275346366702

That's the listing for the guy in Greece. If physical and wiring checks reveal no problems then maybe contacting him could be your next best step?

Keith

Ah, that's not good. If the valve itself and the cables are all free to turn then the likeliest issue is with the ECU. Alas, its a common problem for the PV driver side to fry (particularly if the valve has got sticky with carbon). There was a guy that can repair ECU's in Greece and there were Chine...

Did you take the power valve cover off and see if it rotates when you rev the engine as suggested by kanckeredMk1? I agree with him that it sounds more mixture related but good to rule out other causes.

Keith

The cheap reg/rec unit I got for another bike was letting the volts get up to 15v at higher revs! I fitted a cheap DC volt meter to the AR as I was concerned a failing regulator might prove expensive. Its a good way of checking that all is well. I get about 12v at tickover and about 13.5v at higher ...

If the connector on the end is correct then why not just zip tie the regulator to the bike temporarily so you can test it? If its OK you can then cut the cables and splice on the original cable (or just shorten it). If you cannot solder then any garage should be able to do the job for you. Sorry can...

The side stand switches are fairly standard accross Hondas from that era. I bought a second hand one off a Honda four of some description. It worked fine though I needed to solder on the lead from the old switch as the connectors were different.

Keith

My AR gives over 11V at tickover with the headlamp etc on and this rises to near 14V with a few more revs. If your alternator windings are OK then you must either have a short somewhere or a failing regulator. The most likely fault is regulator so I would start there.

Keith

My AR was a complete pain to start with a scored bore and worn rings. It ran fine once running though. A good bore and new rings transformed the starting. 110 psi is too low (though as always it depends on the accuracy of your gauge). That score is not too bad so worn (or stuck) rings are more likel...

Did this fault come on suddenly, gradually or after you did some work on the bike? Starting only on full throttle suggests its over fueling to me. The wet plug seems to back this up. However, is that due to multiple starting attempts prior to that point? If it were me, I would do a leak down test to...