CRM COOLING FAN PROJECT

[fallenmikethebike]

O/K most owners know that when pushed hard the bikes like to try and put your kettle out of business, so here,s a quite cheap and easy fix.
You will need a magnetic drive brushless fan, see Maplins link below ,i am in this case using a 80mm jobbie .

http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?Men ... y&doy=24m4
1st you need the basic outline +a tang to bend to 90deg later, this allows the use of the rad fixing as the anchor point.


place fan on basic shape , and trace outline +fixing points.



Thus



Pilot hole the 4 by corners + centre +main anchor point.Use the 4 by corner holes to fix plate to an old piece of wood.



Use a 79mm hole saw to remove centre section, this is where screwing it down helps.



Now fix fan to plate , i used the humble cable tie. Soften contact face to rad with some thin foam ,and make electrical connections .I sourced a supply from the kill switch, this lets the fan run continua sly,[it only pulls about 5watts of current.

Fix to the bike using the rad fixing point [tip under bend the angle slightly, this gives it a positive pressure against the rad .

Finished job, its barely visible once rad scoops back on.All in all a couple of hours work, with all the bits to hand .Cost=a fan

£7.00 + p/p peace of mind priceless.

[fallenmikethebike]

Dropped a couple of pictures of post above.

fixed in place.

finished jobbie.

[scrubs]

Nice work Mike

I'll give that a go myself, Cheers

[kernow krusty]

Hi Mike, after my run out, deffo a mod Im gonna do for my Mk 2. You gonna run the fan all the time? Via a switch or off the temp sense so it cuts in when needed?
Also, I guess you have the fan mounted so it draws air through the rad, i.e. pushes air towards your leg.
I was looking through a catalogue at work and you can get different thickness fans, if that makes sense, so an 80mm fan, say, 30mm thick, will shift more air than one 20mm thick.
Youve been running a fan for a while now, what you found to work best?
Regards KK

[fallenmikethebike]

Hi tony
the fan i chose to use this time was the maplins yp40 t which rather confusingly is an 80mm wide x30 deep ,it can shift up to just short of one mt3 per min of air. This is about twice what the 60mm fan was shifting that i had previously fitted to the bike. I had no issues with the 60mm fan it was just that i was ordering up an 80mm for Cronyx,s bike ,so just out of simplicity ordered two the same.NKMK1 has fitted a 100mm to his bike , but that's not quite up to running order yet ,so i don,t know if you want to wait and get a report from his model before making a decision. I think to go much deeper with the fan might give some fitting issues. Hope this helps.
I am now really looking forward to this weekends TRF event in Devon, it,s going to be great to be guided around for a change and only have to think about riding, plus the weathers predicted to be spot on for the weekend .
The only bad news is the fecking fuel cost, i just banged £60 of squirt in the van and got just a smidge over 50 ltrs FFS.,i might ride the bike there at that rate

[kernow krusty]

Yeah..ideal Mike.
I need to sort this motor out first..its sat on the garage floor waiting for a ride to my mates place for autopsy!
Cpl weeks max, I hope.

[knackeredMk1]

KK - You can see my setup in the 'Motard/Specials' section but I only fitted the 100mm because I cocked up the measuring twice. I think an 80mm is better suited; the positioning is not critical and it shifts enough air.

The only thing I would add is to think about a two level fan - One that has a virtually silent 'low' setting and a much more powerful (and noisy) 'high' setting. I did think about having it on permenant 'low' but I'm probably going to have an 'Off' switch so I can easily isolate any shorts in the circuitary if I get problems on the trail.

[fallenmikethebike]

I have the fan positioned to pull air through the rad ,so it works in conjunction with airflow direction.I run mine in a permanently on mode,[it only pulls a few watts ].but the connections are a push fit ,so could be isolated very quickly and easily if a fault was suspected.

[Mudfacetony]

I have the fan positioned to pull air through the rad ,so it works in conjunction with airflow direction.I run mine in a permanently on mode,[it only pulls a few watts ].but the connections are a push fit ,so could be isolated very quickly and easily if a fault was suspected.

Any chance you can help out with the wiring bit. Where do you get the connections from and where abouts did you wire it into? Sounds a great mod. My Mk3 boiled in Scarborough area last month so the extra cooling would come in very handy

[Eddie Evans]

I have the fan positioned to pull air through the rad ,so it works in conjunction with airflow direction.I run mine in a permanently on mode,[it only pulls a few watts ].but the connections are a push fit ,so could be isolated very quickly and easily if a fault was suspected.

Any chance you can help out with the wiring bit. Where do you get the connections from and where abouts did you wire it into? Sounds a great mod. My Mk3 boiled in Scarborough area last month so the extra cooling would come in very handy

It's not quite as easy on the Mk3. One the one side the coolant tank is in the way and on the other the oil filler.

What I have done as a temporary( being a lazy basket probably permanent) is unfasten the oil filler and pull it back.
This allows enough room to mount the fan. My oil filler is now not fastened but trapped between the fan and the tank.
Long term my idea is to route the rubber pipe from the tank to the filler a different way.

[kernow krusty]

Thanks chaps, all useful stuff.
Im going to run mine via an inline fuse, just as extra precaution. I think I'll also use a switch..as my Mk 2 has no indicators, I could use the indicator switch.. turn left for slow speed cooling, turn right for turbo blow...err...job..
I'll post some pics and the details on the wiring when I do it (next cpl weeks).
I only have an 'old fashioned' Mk 2, so may not be quite so relevant for Mk3/AR's.
Regards KK