Wheel Bearings and spark plugs and servicing!

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 10 Nov 2003, 14:30

Any one got any ideas for making Front Wheel Bearings changes easy?

New ones in the freezer? How do I get the old ones out?

I'm getting new seals etc...

Also what gap is it for a EV sparkplug? same as standard?

Just realised I've done 3500KM on the bike and changed the chain(on my 3rd!) more often than the OIL (once) and PLUG (never) and AIR FILTER (Never)!

(the front bearings were gritty when I bought it! but's starting to feel a bit strange on faster corners now.)

Karl Nicholson · Post by **Karl Nicholson** » 10 Nov 2003, 15:35

as for the wheel bearing , the spacer tube between the bearings should shift sideways a little a one of the end, enabling you to get adrift in and knock it out from the opposite end, then the second one is easy.
as for your spark plug standard or a little larger will be fine (as these plugs require less voltage to generate a spark.

Karl Nicholson · Post by **Karl Nicholson** » 10 Nov 2003, 15:36

as for the wheel bearing , the spacer tube between the bearings should shift sideways a little a one of the end, enabling you to get adrift in and knock it out from the opposite end, then the second one is easy.
as for your spark plug standard or a little larger will be fine (as these plugs require less voltage to generate a spark.

Bargos · Post by **Bargos** » 11 Nov 2003, 09:48

Youve changed the oil ONCE in 3500 KM? I have found that Hondas will take all the abuse that you can give them and as long as you keep changing the oil they will run forever. I usually change mine after every 3rd or 4th ride.

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 11 Nov 2003, 12:07

I know, it's terrible, i feel real bad about it.

However, it doesn't get thrashed off road (or On really) and I've been letting it creep up cos I've been really lazy.

I do maybe 150kms a week on the road (and very lttile off road at the moment) so I think I need to make a note to change it every 4 weeks or so.

can you use car 10/40 oil in the gearbox? I think it would be easier if I had a lot of oil handy rather than having to go out everytime I need some (halfords only sell, 2stroke gearbox oil in 1 ltr containers!)

I am usually quite mechanically sensitive to these things but, well it happened, and now i need to put it right!

Bargos · Post by **Bargos** » 11 Nov 2003, 12:25

Phil,

I tend to use proper motorcycle gearbox oil in mine - might be worth speaking to LT and letting us all know? I must admit that ive never felt completely sure about what is best for an engine and what isnt and thats why I tend to stick with the recommended stuff. Its different for my car though (£250 banger) and I will stick any old sh*t in that.

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 11 Nov 2003, 13:35

I would have thought 10w40 is the same whatever (if it were gear oil it would have a 80/90 or GL rating?)

Anyway i went home at lunchtime and changed my oil (and fitted my nice lovely very useful genuine aftermarket secondhand rack)

Will ask leisure trail.

Bargos · Post by **Bargos** » 12 Nov 2003, 09:49

Phil,

You are one of the rare breed of people who actually listens to what I say

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 12 Nov 2003, 10:54

I always listen to what everyone says, they just have to understand it's my choice where I agree and take any notice

ugly1171 · Post by **ugly1171** » 12 Nov 2003, 15:02

I'm sure the majority will already know this but, just a word of caution on finding cheaper oil. Just because an oil has the same viscosity rating it doesn't mean they'll do the same job.
Most multigrades are \"jack of all trades, masters of none\" ie it has to lubricate, clean & cool the insides of a engine which in the case of a typical 4 stroke m/cycle contains a 'wet' clutch & gearbox, unlike car engines which have a dry clutch & gearbox bolted on to it. This the reason why cheap car oil should never be used, you're just asking for trouble later on.
The CRM gearbox is sealed from the engine so the oil only has to have properties suitable for the clutch & gearbox.
My point is if you cross referenced 2 stroke oil & found 3in1 oil had the same viscosity rating as your usual 2 stroke oil, would you use 3in1 instead because it was cheaper?
I change my gearbox oil every 2000 Kms, I do drain it into a measured jug to check i'm not losing any via the crankseals, it's now done 16,000Kms with no problems.
Why not contact the oil manufactor/importer & see if they'll see supply you some oil in bulk? If you don't get any joy from them, your local m/cycle shop can get some for you.
Things like chains, bearings & lipseals can be sourced from bearing wholesalers at a big saving if you shop around, have the part numbers to hand (which are usually on bearings & lipseals) & ask for a trade discount.

Ugly

Ian T-B · Post by **Ian T-B** » 12 Nov 2003, 23:15

I like to ride my MKII regularly - mainly off road. Usually every weekend.

I change the oil after every 2 rides - WITHOUT FAIL -

I use silkoline light gear oil which I belive to be one off the best. It costs me £4.50 for a litre and that will do 2 oil changes. Touch wood, I have not had any engine/gearbox trouble at all

and the old girl is still giving the KTM 525 EXC's a run for their money.

If the gear box buggers up and its due to poor quality oil or lack off it you wont half be p***s*d off you didn't spend 10 mins more regularly wont you?

Also you can give the engine and exhaust a good clean whilst you are waiting for the level to get there.

You know it makes sence !!!

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 13 Nov 2003, 08:25

how can you get 2 changes out of a litre when it takes 650ml to fill? (i've been using the rest on my chain!)

I've certainly stirred up a hornets nest on this one!

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 13 Nov 2003, 18:35

leisure trail say use the proper stuff.

Ian T-B · Post by **Ian T-B** » 13 Nov 2003, 22:48

What do LT recommend?

Phil Neal · Post by **Phil Neal** » 13 Nov 2003, 23:06

I said is it ok to get away with 10/40 car oil or should I use proper 2 stroke 10/40.

They said use the proper stuff.

I guess if it is labelled as 'oil for 2 stroke engine/gearbox' it should be ok (don't use mower oil or car oil)

I'll carry on using halfords until i find somewhere that will sell me a gallon or so at reasonable price.