Clutch adjustment
- Pie-eyedpiper
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Clutch adjustment
Can someone tell me what the correct clutch adjustment (mk2) is?
BOR told me this-
viewtopic.php?p=47826#p47826
Is that as accurate as it gets or is there a free play measurement at the lever/lower adjuster etc?
BOR told me this-
viewtopic.php?p=47826#p47826
Is that as accurate as it gets or is there a free play measurement at the lever/lower adjuster etc?
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Re: Clutch adjustment
Generally 6mm of free play at the lever is acceptable, and desirable.
This can be adjusted at the lever using the knurled adjusters, or, at the actuating lever, [on the crankcase] using the threaded adjusters.
My money is on the KNMK1 advice, the bike has gearbox issues that will probably require a crankcase split to resolve, IMO.
If the primary use of the bike is closed course events, another more focused bike would be the answer, of which there are an infinite number.
Unless you're a fairly competent mechanic the sums involved in the repair of the bike may outweigh the residual value, so any money would be better spent on the afore mentioned option.
Looking at the value some people put on the used second hand spares
, it would seem a viable proposition.
Mike
This can be adjusted at the lever using the knurled adjusters, or, at the actuating lever, [on the crankcase] using the threaded adjusters.
My money is on the KNMK1 advice, the bike has gearbox issues that will probably require a crankcase split to resolve, IMO.
If the primary use of the bike is closed course events, another more focused bike would be the answer, of which there are an infinite number.
Unless you're a fairly competent mechanic the sums involved in the repair of the bike may outweigh the residual value, so any money would be better spent on the afore mentioned option.
Looking at the value some people put on the used second hand spares


Mike
VFORCE REEDS-MUGEN HEAD AND BARREL-WHITE POWER-ALL ON MY WISH LIST!!
- Pie-eyedpiper
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Re: Clutch adjustment
My clutch cable is almost at the end of the thread on the accuator arm, and I have no free play at the lever.
I'm thinking a new cable is in order at least.
I'm thinking a new cable is in order at least.
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Re: Clutch adjustment
Look at the actuator arm at the front sprocket, draw an imaginary line at that point across the engine through the centre of the pivot arm, if the actuator arm is to the front of that line, there's a high degree of of possibility the clutch plates, et al, are shot, if the arm is behind or about that line, then all should be OK. This is only a very rough yard stick though, and would assume all else to be in good fettle
.
Mike

Mike
VFORCE REEDS-MUGEN HEAD AND BARREL-WHITE POWER-ALL ON MY WISH LIST!!
- knackeredMk1
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Re: Clutch adjustment
Re clutch cable. If there is no free play and the threaded section at the actuating arm is on 'full looseness' then you have the wrong clutch cable.
If it is on 'full tightness' then I will say no more ........................
If it is on 'full tightness' then I will say no more ........................

- Pie-eyedpiper
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Re: Clutch adjustment
[quote="knackeredMk1"]Re clutch cable. If there is no free play and the threaded section at the actuating arm is on 'full looseness' then you have the wrong clutch cable.
If it is on 'full tightness' then I will say no more ........................ :roll:[/quote]
Please forgive my ignorance, is full "looseness" with the adjuster screwed fully to the open end of the cable or to the sleeve end?
(I'm inside in the warm and the bike is out in the garage and not easy to get at).
If it is on 'full tightness' then I will say no more ........................ :roll:[/quote]
Please forgive my ignorance, is full "looseness" with the adjuster screwed fully to the open end of the cable or to the sleeve end?
(I'm inside in the warm and the bike is out in the garage and not easy to get at).
- knackeredMk1
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Re: Clutch adjustment
'looseness' is at the cable end.