Mark 3 radiator pipe routing.

[almich]

Hi can anyone help?

I have just got the engine back after having the bottom end rebuilt. I have the engine back in the frame (all easy enough) but did not take any before pictures so I am struggling with the correct routing of some of the piped for the radiators and also some of the cables etc. Does anyone have any pictures they can post or email me ([email protected]) to help.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Al

[fishtail]

well you a bit late cos I took mine out last week... and I dint take pics

but I didnt really take all apart.. so this is the state of it now




I'm gonna block off the carb de-icer pipes... any one got any tips on which particular method to use? ( ie how to do it :p )

[njhardy]

Your radiators look bent out of shape fishy!! Good idea to degrease & jet wash out all the crud inside and ouside them.

I just connected the pre-warmer outlets with a spare bit of tubing, so it goes out of one and into the other- genius!! Just block off the carb nipples.

Be careful not to get an air lock in your rads when you refil. Lean the bike to the right hand side. I actually got a large syringe and filled the left hand radiator to the brim using the drain tube on the top. Once it was full, put all the caps on and drain fluid out of the coolant drain plug (on the pump) down to the correct coolant level mark.

[almich]

Thanks for the Pic fishtail. It helps a little! I have an issue with the expansion tank and the routing of my powervalve cables, a bit more fiddling and jiggery pockery will be required.

Any more pictures anyone has would be greatly appreciated.

Love and kisses

Al

[fishtail]

think your cables go infront of the expansion tank - and loop under the fuel tank.. (?)

from memory when I took the radiator off - I had to disconnect servo motor from frame.. I zip tied this to the frame roughly in position of where tank was. I left the cables connect to the power valve it self ( wasnt sure how far in I was going! )


then I loosened the bare minimum hoses on the radiator... only pipes going between left and right - carb deicer to an fro's and water pump - and cyclinder head.

hope these hints help!



do you have any idea about what I can use to plug up the pipes I wont reconnect - since I piss around with my carb so much I think I wanna loose the carb de-icer pipes... but dont know how to do it!!!

[fallenmikethebike]

Silicone, just squirt it in the ends to make a bung.
Mike

[knackeredMk1]

Neat way drill the connector out of the head and tap in a thread for a grub screw.

Other - leave the pipe on the connector head/rad and cut it off about 10-15mm from the end of the connector inside the pipe. Then push an allen head bolt of the right diameter and length (~10-12mm) into the cut end and secure with a hose clip.

You can probably see both methods in photos of my projects.

[fishtail]

nice one thanks

[back off road]

1 phillips screw on the carb if its not been replaced with chewing gum or a nail on your bike fishtail and the block the pipes go into comes off and thats it , the one from the rad and head i blanked off with chemical metal , 5 minuite job but let the chemical metal set before running it

[fishtail]

chewing gum?

yeah that sounds like it'll suit my bike "bodgie" sorry cheep cheeeep joke - ok I'll stop now

[Active Rascal]

I designed a bung (shown on right hand side of below image):

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c122/ ... CF2157.jpg

and bunged off the head as follows:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c122/ ... CF2247.jpg

I was going to use an allen head bolt as knackered suggested, but luckily could get machining done fairly easily so thought the special bung would be best.

I had CR rads so only had to blank off the head. I did however have to take the thermostat bypass tube and tap it into the flow back into the coolant pump.

Shaun.

[fishtail]

ahh I see!

so you sticking the head of the bolt into the pipe? now I geddit! thanks...


and ohhh what a shiny head you have

mine dont look that that

[Active Rascal]

No, I would use a shortish bolt, use a thread diameter which is the same or slightly larger than the bore of the short hose section you use. Push the bolt all the way through until the head sits flush as like a collar. Then clamp both pieces. In honest, I had a slight leak, but this was as the clamp wasn't clamping down equally due to a different O/D hose, but i put a dab of silicone down the short tube to bung it properly and no problems.

The head is shiny, is it was a brand new Mugen head!! :)

You think the head is shiny, check out the head steadies I had made ;)

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c122/ ... CF2270.jpg

You can see the blanking method here also:

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c122/ ... CF2246.jpg

[fishtail]

they is indeed super shiny..

I must have the worst CRM in history ----- or at least on here

I'm gonna have to fix Bodgie up next summer... whole thing.. strip and powder coat frame engine the bloody lot!

I'm startin with pluggin my deicer pipe's up

[Active Rascal]

[quote="fishtail"]
and ohhh what a shiny head you have :D
:([/quote]

.... That's what she said!! ;)