A few queries on my rebuild

Post by **knackeredMk1** » 15 May 2013, 08:37

I used Boltmeup to get most of my stock of SS. They were very good when they started. Then they started sending the wrong stuff. Then they started sending nothing unless really pushed. Then I stopped using them. I don't think the guy (can't remember his name) had a decent stock and release system and they just folded by taking on too much.

Braking the brass fitting is quite common. Solutions are buy a new/used pump (very expensive new) or buy a broken pump and swap the fitting.

Post by **fishtail** » 15 May 2013, 12:50

if cash is an issue- suppose u could forget the oil pump an run premix?

I know I will do that, especially initially until I know its all going hunky dory,,

( tenuous Bowie connection - any one see that canadian bloke doing Major Tom on his last day on the space station? )

clint · Post by **clint** » 15 May 2013, 23:02

It looks like I will have to run premix till I can source a broken or used one. Leisure trail quoted me £118 + VAT for a new one.

Bolt me up arent registered on ebay anymore, don't answer the phone and because I paid as a paypal guest am having a bit of a nightmare getting a refund. I thought £11 delivered was a bit too good to be true for over a kilo of stainless steel bolts.

How far have you got with yours anyhow fishtail?

clint · Post by **clint** » 15 May 2013, 23:11

Oh and I forgot to mention (can't edit post now) that I've test rode her very briefly today (with a slippy gear shifter). She rides nice but I was only very careful. No horrible noises all the gears selected (with a few slips of the peg). I wouldn't dare go far or change gear much as I don't wanna ruin my output shift keep slipping. All my gears select fine and she didn't lock up on me. Result. I know how to rebuild an engine. YIPEE

clint · Post by **clint** » 18 May 2013, 19:22

Got my hands on a torque wrench, torqued up to spec most bolts but a few just seemed to spin (the couldn't have been that loose?!?!?!) so I let them be they are tight in there small wrench won't budge them easily. Oil leaks seems to have stopped but I've only warmed the bike up. Taking it out tomorrow for the first ride (other than around the block). Fingers crossed

Post by **knackeredMk1** » 18 May 2013, 20:12

Have you stripped the threads on the female side of some

.

Post by **fallenmikethebike** » 18 May 2013, 22:39

^^^^ +1

An old imperial size might allow an in situ jerry fix,

like 5/16 th.

Possibly a 7mm if a matching bolt could be found. Not an ideal solution, and you wouldn't be able to lean on the T bar to heavily or the same would happen again.
Good luck
Mike

Post by **knackeredMk1** » 19 May 2013, 07:17

In theory you could helicoil while in situ or buy some 1cm longer bolts and see if there is still enough thread left to get them to work

clint · Post by **clint** » 19 May 2013, 10:22

It seems like the threads may be stripped yes. They just kept turning but didn't come loose. It did seem like there was enough pressure (still tightening) but surely they couldn't be that loose. I stopped tightening after about 2 full rotations on each. It was the 2 of the ones inside generator side. Just been out to the shed and there is no visible oil seep anymore. tried to turn all bolts with a small wrench and with a medium amount of force they seem nice and tight. I daren't unsettle them in case the threads are stripped and they don't go back in

Going out on the bike soon for it's maiden voyage. The engine is coming back out when I get back if there are no oil leaks/it ran well during voyage to give the bike it's full makeover. I will be taking every bolt out and thread locking it back into place as I rebuild and may helicoil in situ or try longer bolts the ones that seem to be threaded as you advised.

Generally speaking I'm quite happy with the rebuild, just need to see it take me a few miles without any issues before I commit to polishing everything

Post by **knackeredMk1** » 19 May 2013, 15:46

Be aware that if one or more of the 'stripped' bolts comes loose then you could rapidly loose all your gearbox oil

.

I would take out the suspect ones and replace them with 10mm longer bolts which should give you enough thread (5mm if you have to).

clint · Post by **clint** » 19 May 2013, 23:08

I'm going to have to sort those stripped bolts whilst I start my next challenge. Make proper use of the torque wrench and rebuild the engine again but this time DO IT PROPERLY.

My clutch went whilst i was out.. Got a friend to rescue me and i got the bike home. Took the engine casing off and saw shiny shards of metal. Looked on the inside of the engine casing and there where scorings from what looked like the clutch spring bolts. loosened springs, took case off and the big center nut was all the way open. I literally turned the last bit of thread by hand and the bolt that could have destroyed everything in it's path was in my hand.

Luckily the marks aren't that bad and once I've cleaned everything up nothing is broken so I can sort it. Things could have been worse that bolt holding those 3 cogs that I tightened up at the same time would have done more than scratch the casings!!!

I'm not sure whether I should just split the engine, polish everything up, replace every bearing, rebuild the nice shiny engine making sure mistakes made the first time aren't repeated using the torque wrench I now have and then finally rebuild the nice shiny clean bike. Safe with the knowledge I've done it before and it started 3rd kick

or

Flush the engine in situ with plenty of oil and magnetic drain plug/magnet on aerial I have. Remove all cases and torque everything up not just bolts holding the cases together like before. Continue to run the bike in so I'm doubly certain it wont explode and once confident my repair is proper THEN do my makeover.

I'm leaning towards sod it get it stripped down again but it was nice riding it today and I could make it right with engine in frame.

If it was a 4t I had rebuilt I think I would be in MAJOR trouble here. Very lucky escape on my first ever engine rebuild

mudboots · Post by **mudboots** » 24 May 2013, 08:04

I can say for certain A CR 250 or a CR 500 gear lever will fit a CRM mk1 and 2 Plus they are a little longer makes it easier to get your foot under it.

clint · Post by **clint** » 24 May 2013, 20:31

Great any idea what year? I've rebuilt the engine (again) and I've go no leaks at all now. The water pump cover still has sealant but i've a new clutch cover with pump on its a way from a forum member (after my stupidity only thing that was damaged) so I'll have it everything sorted then.

I did take a grinder to the join on my gear selector and got it to bite like that but the bike will be being stripped soon as I'm happy with the oily bits now so will be getting cr gear selector ready for the proper rebuild

mudboots · Post by **mudboots** » 24 May 2013, 21:48

I tried the one off my CR500 on my CRM250 MK2 motor that I have for spares it fit no worries the gear box shaft selector is 13mm.
I have also tried CR250 gear selector off a friends bike the last of the CR's made it fits as well .... Although it was easy to see that aluminium alloy gear selectors with that big bend in them like this one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gear-Lever-P ... 5af1147b11 ..... stick out to far.
So I ordered one made of steel and bent it to the shape I wanted works really well.
As for what year they all seem to fit its just a mater of getting one the right shape.
Hope this helps

A few queries on my rebuild

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