alternator/ rectifier? issues

[ptorresavello]

Hi guys, my crm has been dead since march, after my new ECU adaptation i went for a ride to the beach, the thing is after an hour of riding with no complains the thing just dies, and after bypassing the killswitch and other stuff that worked sometimes like moving the wires, the bike started but then died, I checked every connection continuity and everything else. Long story short, when I opened the magneto cover at home and then when removing it I realized that my stator was turned to crap by a bolt that a friend left inside by mistake. Then was the drama of finding a new stator here in Chile, there was one but I didn't have enough money to buy it, meanwhile I found out that a stator from the same bike(a suzi dr200 imitation) that I put the ECU might fit into my magneto/crankshaft, so I got one from a guy for 10 usd, I placed it and nothing, just about 3v AC from each yellow cable and 4.5v DC from reg/rec. Then some money came across and I bought the original stator that came with a flywheel(magneto) from a mk1, and I've just finished replacing it to my bike with similar results. I get 6v DC and about 3.2v AC from each yellow wire. So I'm guessing that my reg/rec is faulty, but when disconnecting it and testing each yellow wire I get the same 3vAC aprox. I need help, I'm tired of this bike, I've owned it for about 8 months and it has been running for about 3 weeks in total. What should I do, in addition to try with another reg/rec.??

[fishtail]

this sounds very familiar!!
that low voltage is actually quite normal!

how is your capacitor?
are you sure the red and green wire feeding it hasnt been damaged anywhere?
my wiring was damaged - but worked *sometimes* becos sometimes it would *reconect* then sometimes if the wire moved would disconnect again! and the wire didnt really look majorly damaged... was hard to spot where it had been crushed.

my damage was done by the steering. and was ancient! it predated me havin the bike - but 'lucky' for me it was working when I bought it.

[fishtail]

must repeat that the voltages you quote for the yellow wires and R/R are normal!

seriously doubt this is R/R - they are actually quite tough, and I have a very expensive brand new one virtually unused as I bougght as I had the same "symptoms" as you describe.

FYI - I had actually totally molten the plastic connector, and also some wire inside the loom. after I fixed em the R/R still worked!

possible to have more than one problem at once, which will confuse the hell out of you.

check the voltages at the kill switch, ignition switch and capacitor

- I suspect its the capacitor not getting its juice.

the bike starts and runs ? but no lights horn etc? possibly no powervalve movement?

[ptorresavello]

wow thanks a lot, I thought that my new stator was broken too, because in some post I read that the normal voltage was like 10v-50v AC in each yellow wire. now I'm trying to make it work with a new R/R, but still no luck, I think the capacitor is connected after the ecu and pv system, so it might be this?, I'll try now and test continuity between wires and stuff looking for the problem.

[ptorresavello]

I'm getting 8v out of the rectifier, just between the red and green wires, the green isn't grounded and the red not connected to the loom. When I connect the red, the voltage reduces to 7, the same with when I ground the green one. Resulting in about 6v with the both connected properly. The capacitor didn't make any change to the system disconnecting or connecting it.

[fishtail]

questions to answer - simply

the bike can run at all? ( or are u taking measurement using kickstart only? )

or jus electrical problem? ( no lights )

why did u change the flywheel?

i think the mk1 mk2 an mk3 flywheels are different..

[ptorresavello]

The bike is not running and it has no lights at all, I pulled them out, everything, so the only thing that's plugged in is the ecu, and pv ecu. And I'm cranking the bike with a powertool, that I always use to see the spark, but now I'm not getting anything from the plug, I just want the bike to run.

The flywheel came with the new stator, and I was just trying it out, I get the same voltage using the mk1 or mk2 flywheel.

[knackeredMk1]

You have to match the ECU with the flywheel. If you don't the ignition timing will be wrong.

[ptorresavello]

Yeah, I know but I have a dirrerent ecu, one that worked great, a chinese one from a dr200 copy. The only thing that I changed is the stator, which was turned to €&€#%#* by a loose bolt stucked inside the flywheel when assemblying it.

[ptorresavello]

I mean, the bike ran ok until the stator broke and now with the new one is not responding at all. Now I'm getting voltage, somethi g I was not receivinv at all from the old stator, but my plug does not sparkle

[fishtail]

lots of unknowns on this one..

quite interesting about the ECU, is the wiring not a nightmare?

[ptorresavello]

actually the wiring is much simpler with the new ecu, since there's only 4 wires that plug in it. There's the one that go to the coil/spark plug, ground/negative, positive from the killswitch, and the pickup coil. The pv ecu receives power directly form the red/positive wire and signal from the black/yellow wire to spark plug coil. I think I will try with a new ecu, since the 8.something volts should be able to give a spark or not???

[fishtail]

might be,

or check wiring to coil?

if lights dont come on then check capacitor connection,

so your new ECU doesnt control the PV then?

whats the exact model? any link? how much did it cost?

cheers!