b*gger....
b*gger....
took the Mk2 for an MOT saturday morning and it passsed 
troouble is they said the engine is sh@gged, main bearings gone apparently. Doesn't sound any different to whn I got it to be honest but there again if they were gone then I suppose it wouldn't !
So questions guys :
Could it be they are mistaken ? I know several of you on here say your bike sounds a bit lumpy, I've just always presumed thats how CRM's are.
I've downloaded the PDF onthe engine rebuild - chuffin heck, sounds like a lot of hard work ! do I replace all bearings etc I can afford while I'm at it ? can you even get them all ???
err.....wish me luck ! I think I shall be at this for a little while.....
Ed
troouble is they said the engine is sh@gged, main bearings gone apparently. Doesn't sound any different to whn I got it to be honest but there again if they were gone then I suppose it wouldn't !So questions guys :
Could it be they are mistaken ? I know several of you on here say your bike sounds a bit lumpy, I've just always presumed thats how CRM's are.
I've downloaded the PDF onthe engine rebuild - chuffin heck, sounds like a lot of hard work ! do I replace all bearings etc I can afford while I'm at it ? can you even get them all ???
err.....wish me luck ! I think I shall be at this for a little while.....
Ed
I would go back to the bloke who made the remark about the engine being duff and ask him if he was interested in buying it and how much would it be worth ,,,,,,If he says yes he would and offers you silly money then its a good guess he was just trying it on ..Sounds to me it almost worked,,hehe,, Even if he's right ,, The engine will just stop working anyways ,, I dont think it will blowup ,Theres oil and water in it isnt there..check these,,..Is there any gray/blue smoke comming from the exhaust ,, Is the oil filler cap filled with gray frothey slime,,Is there blowing noises comming from the head or barrel of the engine..Does it backfire alot , does it overheat,,, do you have to top up with water all the time ,Do your handlebars vibrate alot ,,,If your answer to all of these is no not at all , then it sounds ok.
I thought an MOT tester's job was to test whether your bike is roadworthy, not offer you advice on your main bearings!
My advice - get a second opinion from a reputable bike shop, preferably the local dirtbike people. If they say that your mains need replacing then get a price for them to do it with the engine out because thats where most of the labour is. Pulling the engine is a piece of cake - I stripped my whole bike down in 2.5 hours but I guess I have the advantage of having done it before.
Where do you live? If im close by I will be pleased to help you as much as I can.
Let me know how you get on.
My advice - get a second opinion from a reputable bike shop, preferably the local dirtbike people. If they say that your mains need replacing then get a price for them to do it with the engine out because thats where most of the labour is. Pulling the engine is a piece of cake - I stripped my whole bike down in 2.5 hours but I guess I have the advantage of having done it before.
Where do you live? If im close by I will be pleased to help you as much as I can.
Let me know how you get on.
Bargos
'Daybreak Boys', West Sussex
'Daybreak Boys', West Sussex
cheers for the advice guys - I'm slightly concerned that they just don't know CRM's but they are pretty good with off roaders. Suppose I could take it to another garage and see what their advice is...can't hurt. Bike pulls ok, no water leaks, no oil leaks no wheasing noises. Idle is a bit erratic and a bugger to start but I was putting that down to carb needing new jets etc. It is a little smokey but I thought thats just what strokers are like ?? I did speak to them again for charges etc, they reckoned about 4-5 hours labour for engine only, a couple more if taking it out of the bike. Interestingly though they said they can get most CRM engine parts so might be a cheaper alternative to LT for bits. They quoted me @ £10 for crank case oil seals.
Thanks for the offer Bargos but I'm near Oxford so it's probably a bit of a way for you though.
Thanks for the offer Bargos but I'm near Oxford so it's probably a bit of a way for you though.
Starting
Good evening Ed,
My CRM was also a bugger to start
and after changing bits and bobs in the carb for months an old wise man i know said that 'you will be buggering about for years trying to sort that' 
,
Excellent i thought, what do you recommend
The wise words i recieved are as follows:
Turn on the fuel
lean the bike over at least 45 degrees until petrol floods out of the over flow pipe
Stand the bike back up right and turn on the choke fully
Turn on the key, take your hand off of the throttle and leave it off then kick.
I must admit i do this ritual every time and it always starts first or sometimes second kick.
I also recommend that you check the spark plug as i have had brand new but faulty ones in the past.
regards
Baldy 67
My CRM was also a bugger to start
and after changing bits and bobs in the carb for months an old wise man i know said that 'you will be buggering about for years trying to sort that' ,Excellent i thought, what do you recommend
The wise words i recieved are as follows:
Turn on the fuel
lean the bike over at least 45 degrees until petrol floods out of the over flow pipe
Stand the bike back up right and turn on the choke fully
Turn on the key, take your hand off of the throttle and leave it off then kick.
I must admit i do this ritual every time and it always starts first or sometimes second kick.
I also recommend that you check the spark plug as i have had brand new but faulty ones in the past.
regards
Baldy 67
cheers baldy, I have heard this before tbh but have not tried it myself yet. Something just stikes me as a little odd that you should have to do this to get a bike to start reliably though. I think it was explained to me that the fuel and oil separate in the float chamber or something, but that wouldn't stop the bike starting would it ?
Odd
Hi Ed
This is an odd ritual but that is why we all love crm's (they are all different and have their own ways) :lo.
The theory is that when you have stopped or parked up for a while the petrol evaporates slightly, leaving a minute amount of oil which causes the float to stick closed .
this does not allow any petrol in when you kick it over.
When you flood the carb it releases the float allowing petrol in and allowing an easy start ready for fun.
With regards to the rattle mine has done this from virtually new and is still doing it 4000kms later, i would not worry just keep on top of the oil changes.
regards
Baldy
This is an odd ritual but that is why we all love crm's (they are all different and have their own ways) :lo.
The theory is that when you have stopped or parked up for a while the petrol evaporates slightly, leaving a minute amount of oil which causes the float to stick closed
.this does not allow any petrol in when you kick it over.
When you flood the carb it releases the float allowing petrol in and allowing an easy start ready for fun.
With regards to the rattle mine has done this from virtually new and is still doing it 4000kms later, i would not worry just keep on top of the oil changes.
regards
Baldy
ahhh.... that makes more sense. I shall give it a go next time. Rode it into work today to see if i can notice any difference from when I first got it. It does feel as though there is a bit of a vibration at the top end (might be normal ?!) but I did notice that even after I had turned the choke off warming it up the bike continues to smoke very well (white) forgot to check at work though but I don't think it was. ahhhhh - isn't paranoia great !
a simple check on the main bearings would give you peace of mind.
simply remove the flywheel casing on the left of the engine (when sat on it) and try moving the flywheel up and down then and right , remember not to use to much force because the hard you do it the less likely you'll feel any play on there. and it would be worth checking the balance shaft bearing which is to the right of the flywheel.
hope it helps.
simply remove the flywheel casing on the left of the engine (when sat on it) and try moving the flywheel up and down then and right , remember not to use to much force because the hard you do it the less likely you'll feel any play on there. and it would be worth checking the balance shaft bearing which is to the right of the flywheel.
hope it helps.
hi ed,
just had my crank bearings go, started to make a wining nosie and just as the previous post said about give the rotor a shake i did and found movment, you should also feel it vibrating though your seat.
as to the cost iv spent £200 so far with LT. however around £90 of this was on the water pump as i found this to worn ,its not just a case of changing the seal i'v had to buy a new shaft ,new mechanical seal, new bearing and finally a new seal,
the good bit is i had the piston and barrel checked out today and its A1.
recomended a ring change , which is fine by me , and bigends still in its limits to.
as to starting LT. told me to do this and its always worked ,
when your ready to put the bike away turn the fuel off and run it until it stalls it self. this will let any water evaporate and stop the fuel varnishing inside the carb,
when starting, fuel on, let it fill the bowl, give it two slow kicks bringing the compression to the top of the kick start , chock on and a fast kick giving it a small blipp on the throttle. at the same time..
i was once a twenty kick man, now if i have to give it more than two kicks i spit my dummy out ,
my only advice would be if you do need to change the bearings , when pulling off the fly wheel do not stand over it ,
i used flywheel puller and when the bugger finally decided to come off it came off around 100mph and nearly took my head off......regards timo
just had my crank bearings go, started to make a wining nosie and just as the previous post said about give the rotor a shake i did and found movment, you should also feel it vibrating though your seat.
as to the cost iv spent £200 so far with LT. however around £90 of this was on the water pump as i found this to worn ,its not just a case of changing the seal i'v had to buy a new shaft ,new mechanical seal, new bearing and finally a new seal,
the good bit is i had the piston and barrel checked out today and its A1.
recomended a ring change , which is fine by me , and bigends still in its limits to.
as to starting LT. told me to do this and its always worked ,
when your ready to put the bike away turn the fuel off and run it until it stalls it self. this will let any water evaporate and stop the fuel varnishing inside the carb,
when starting, fuel on, let it fill the bowl, give it two slow kicks bringing the compression to the top of the kick start , chock on and a fast kick giving it a small blipp on the throttle. at the same time..
i was once a twenty kick man, now if i have to give it more than two kicks i spit my dummy out ,
my only advice would be if you do need to change the bearings , when pulling off the fly wheel do not stand over it ,
i used flywheel puller and when the bugger finally decided to come off it came off around 100mph and nearly took my head off......regards timo