crm seizure

>40 but <50 · Post by **>40 but <50** » 13 Mar 2006, 20:20

Hi all, Can anyone advise me with a problem. I mot'd my crm today. I got to the mot station after a 20mile ride on the motorway, bike running fine. When the guy from the station tried to kick me bike, the kickstart was locked. After a bit of rocking it freed and the bike sailed through it's mot. Almost to the end of my return journey, as I turned off the motorway, the bike died then kicked into life again, then as I pulled away from the roundabout it died totally. I tried to kick it over but the kick start was seized again and any amount of rocking won't free it. This may be a dumb question, but is this classic seizure and can anyone recommend a solution other than stripping the top end. Also can this be done in the frame.
regards, Les

CRMR · Post by **CRMR** » 13 Mar 2006, 21:01

ouch , Sounds like you have no oil or more so your water pump has packed in or even your autolube isnt working ,Try and free the piston up with some (lots)of WD40 down the sparkplug hole, If you get it started ,check your pump and autolube

>40 but <50 · Post by **>40 but <50** » 13 Mar 2006, 21:53

I've just finished putting it back together. I drained the oil pump like it says on that rebuild website.
I,ve sprayed loads of GT85 and 3in1 in the plug hole and I'll let it stand till tomorrow night then try to free it. How can I check the water pump?

CRMR · Post by **CRMR** » 13 Mar 2006, 22:01

to check the water pump , ?? There must be loads of ways , I would get it started first , the switch it off, Undoo a hose and start it back up again and see if it pumps fluid all over the place ??I would also do the usual check on the thurmostat to see if this isnt jammed aswell ,, (Drop it in a jug of boiling water)......also..To be on the safe side , i would just use a premix oil/petrol mix in the petrol tank itself , just incase the autolube has stopped working ,I suspect this more than anything else

>40 but <50 · Post by **>40 but <50** » 13 Mar 2006, 22:10

The autolube idea seems more feasible the more I discuss it. It usually starts first or second kick but this morning it was a bit reluctant to fire. I just thought at the time it was because it had never had a decent run since putting it together. Sh*t! Dya think it's redeemable then or is it more probable that it'll need a rebore.
I suppose I'm lucky that I only had to push it about a mile and a half home. It could have seized for good at the mot station.

CRMR · Post by **CRMR** » 13 Mar 2006, 22:25

A quick way to check it if you can UN sieze it is to take the exhaust of and peer up the exhaust port and look at the condition of the piston and rings .Also ,Put a rag over the plug hole to see what you catch when kicking it over ,,You dont wanna see bits of alloy or ring..I expect if you can free it then all will be good ..afterall it did stop/cut out at low rev's didnt it !...damaged piston/rings/barrel will loose you performance , thats all , it should still start.but remember to premix the petrol manualy just incase

>40 but <50 · Post by **>40 but <50** » 14 Mar 2006, 08:23

It's not too much hassle to take the cyclinder off if it can be done in the frame. Is this possible? I'd rather have it right rather than just running.

edarter · Post by **edarter** » 14 Mar 2006, 12:51

I don't think you'll get the top end off in the frame. It may be possible but it's gonna be REALLY fiddly. It's difficult enough getting the built up engine in the frame, let alone having extra clearance to lift the barrel off in situ.

HEAD · Post by **HEAD** » 14 Mar 2006, 14:52

it is posible to take off cylynder when engine in the frame

my english is rather bad i am from Russia

>40 but <50 · Post by **>40 but <50** » 14 Mar 2006, 19:16

Hi, tried to free it up again tonight but no joy. Going back to try some more before stripping it.

lee_p · Post by **lee_p** » 14 Mar 2006, 21:52

Head's right you can get the head and barrell off whilst still i the frame, fitted new piston to mine a while back. If thats not the problem take the right hand case of and remove clutch basket, see if the gearbox is free.

Lee

>40 but <50 · Post by **>40 but <50** » 15 Mar 2006, 08:52

Thanks Lee_p, problem could be gears. Initial problem was when kickstart locked at mot station. Bike wasn't even running when this happened. After it freed by rocking bike back and forth, it was fine until it locked up after ride home. I was giving it some stick away from junction when it happened. I've spoken to the mot bloke and he said it was making plenty of smoke so I suppose it was getting oil through.
You've probably guessed I'm not the most mechanically minded but I am welcoming any advice. Does this tell you any more. Regards.

lee_p · Post by **lee_p** » 15 Mar 2006, 12:40

Sounds like you do have gearbox problem. Have you drained gear oil ? if not 17 mm bolt on underside of engine, drain it into a clean container they should be about 600-650cc of oil, run a magnet round in the oil to see if there is any broken parts in it other than that sieve it through a clean rag. If the box is the problem then you need to rip the engine out only a few wires, remove chain, couple of coolant/oil pies and a few bolts and it will be out. Remove cylinder head then the barrel and you can start to split it then.

Look here http://www.offwidth.co.uk/bike/crm_rebuild/ its common knowledge to us all on CRM250.com but has lots of info for service and rebuilding.

Hope this has helped

Lee

shemston_crm · Post by **shemston_crm** » 16 Mar 2006, 04:04

take the spark plug out and see if u can push the bike in gear forward or backward it will either tell u that the piston isnt seized and it could be 1 of many things or it will tell u that it could be one of many things 1 of which may be that the piston is siezed, for how long it takes id get the engine out and strip the top end u might get a way with new rings and a hone if it has nipped up maybe bit of wet n dry on hte piston if needed or could be something completely different

good luck,

edarter · Post by **edarter** » 16 Mar 2006, 13:11

another way would be to take the genny cover off (lhs of engine, no gasket and only about 6 bolts) and with it in neutral you should at least be able to rotate the genny - and hence the piston. Take the plug out and it should do a full stroke ok I think, either way you should get at least 1/2 a rotation.
If it moves ok you know the prob is 'down wind' of the engine / crank area (ie gearbox) if not then you have a piston / crank problem....

good luck